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"At the Wharf’s most ambitious dining endeavor to date, the design is just as important as the food, with a splashy, next-level nautical aesthetic from London’s Artfarm that greets diners with a shoal of floating fish woven from branches and a dramatic plaid tartan stretching up the ceiling. Sustainability threads through the space via a shellacked bartop made of shattered wine bottles, recycled-plastic tabletops, and washed-up beach wood turned into stoic statues wrapped in fishing nets. A vintage porthole peeks into a prep station where chefs cure, dry, and age whole fish coming in from the Chesapeake Bay, while buttery bivalves from Spike Meatyard’s Double ‘T’ Oyster Ranch in Southern Maryland bolster the offerings—Meatyard also assembled much of the look. A shell-framed Boat Room for private dining fittingly overlooks real boats bobbing just outside." - Tierney Plumb