"Georgians are big on lamb, beginning with simple char-grilled chops and kebabs, which are available at any Georgian restaurant. But they’re also fond of fresh herbs in much the same way the Persians were, and use handfuls in many recipes, creating greenish and grayish sauces. One dish merging lamb and herbs at this Georgian Gramercy restaurant is chakapuli, a steaming bowl of lamb tidbits with plenty of fat, bitter greens, and tarragon. This herb, also beloved by the French, tastes like licorice while claiming its own separate pungent identity, too. Spoon this stew over rice and wash it down with a really dry Georgian red wine, which are finding greater acceptance on area wine lists." - Robert Sietsema