"While London was out enjoying mediocre tacos, it should have been studying the tantuni. At Ponders End’s Neco Tantuni, it’s possible to order one of the city’s best late night snacks: either tantuni, finely chopped flesh and fat stuffed into cigarillos, or the somin tantuni, where the same is sandwiched into cubano-like subs. The sandwich version is glossed in a slick of fat, so the bread comes out looking shiny, like Gregg Wallace’s head after a workout. A small tip: The whole family who run Neco can make any of the items superbly, but if the wife makes the tantuni, it’s just that little bit more transcendent." - James Hansen, Jonathan Nunn