"Marie’s has all the hallmarks of a post-war Britalian caff — striking signage, a Vitrolite ceiling, a Formica-topped cabinet — mainly because it used to be one. But when the place changed hands in the 1980s and a new family took over, it gained another string to its bow: a range of homely Thai soups, curries and noodle dishes, available for the same affordable price as its fry-ups. Even the cooked breakfasts at Marie’s are Thai-inflected, with eggs as crispy and frilly-edged as the khai dow at Plaza Khao Gaeng. Standout dishes include the place’s massaman and yellow curries, which are dramatic, fragrant plates of food, with peeled potatoes smaller than most grapes. The restaurant draws a weekday lunchtime crowd of office workers and high-vis types alike, then gets a lot busier in the evenings, when an expanded menu is served and diners can bring their own booze. To dodge the crowds, visit earlier in the day, or pop in for a steadying meal before a Waterloo train journey." - Isaac Rangaswami
