"Tucked away down a tiny alley, this intimate gastronomic retreat from Chef Rodolphe Despagne offers an imaginative five- or seven-course tasting menu full of playful touches — from a sour-cream-and-onion Pringles interpretation that appears before the amuse-bouches to standout composed plates. A memorable example: mussels smoked on a bed of pine needles served with homemade brioche and a frothy companion bowl of mussels, salicorne, hazelnuts, and confit lemon; wine pairings curated by sommelier Erwan Mevel are strongly recommended." - Mary Winston Nicklin