New York City’s Best Omakase Sushi

"A Brooklyn-born omakase from former Ito chef Cheng Lin with a 16-seat U-shaped counter (and a newer 10-seat Gentei counter) that serves generously proportioned nigiri at exceptional value: an 18-course menu for about $195 and a more premium seasonal $255 option. The meal opens with six seasonal small plates—examples include shark-skin flounder in a three-month-aged house ponzu—then progresses to roughly 10 nigiri, a hand roll, and desserts. The chef sources auction-level seafood (some from the same buyers as several top Manhattan counters) and builds nigiri using two types of sushi rice seasoned with different vinegar blends to match delicate whitefish versus richer cuts like toro and mackerel." - Kat Odell