A Texas Barbecue Primer From Regional Styles to 6 Essential Stops

"As the only restaurant in Texas that’s still allowed to cook “en pozo” (i.e., in an underground pit), Vera’s is on a different playing field. Especially when it comes to barbacoa, its signature South Texas barbecue dish that involves slow cooking an entire cow’s head “en pozo,” then typically serving it with freshly made corn or flour tortillas and a fiery trio of salsas. The current owner, Armando Vera, has been perfecting his technique at this Brownsville restaurant since he was a teenager, helming the smoke alongside his parents, founders Alberto and Carmen Vera, before taking over. After the many state and national awards Vera’s has earned, many of the choicest parts of the head (i.e., cheeks, lips, tongue, and jaw meat) sell out soon after they open, which is often before sunrise as the restaurant only operates on weekends." - Kristy Alpert