Sungold Serves What Might Be NYC’s Best Latke

"Opened recently inside Williamsburg’s Arlo Hotel, this all-day restaurant emphasizes seasonal, Greenmarket-style produce and approachable, shareable dishes. Its celery-root latke is a two-day labor-intensive specialty: shredded Idaho russets are blended with shaved celery root, squeezed, packed with clarified butter, slow-roasted until tender, chilled and weighted, then cut into thick triangular wedges and fried to order. Each $16 order delivers a hard, crusty exterior and a softer, gratin-like interior, drizzled with pear butter as an apple-sauce analogue, finished with a generous dusting of finely grated horseradish and minced chives; the result is sweet, salty, greasy and crunchy, meant to be eaten with a knife and fork and served alongside the restaurant’s pastas and wood-fired pizzas. Chef Michael King, formerly of As You Are at the Brooklyn Ace Hotel, leans into smoky, seasonal preparations throughout the menu." - Tammie Teclemariam