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"Hardwood smoke permeates the air and behemoth beef ribs weigh down the paper-lined trays while most patrons get at least a quarter pound of the brisket. The meat cavalcade extends to pastrami bacon finished on the grill and smoked lamb belly with crisp salty bits and fatty sweetness; lip-smacking Chinese sticky ribs and jerk-pork ribs nod to owner Billy Durney’s old Flatbush haunts, and a terrific namesake sausage with peppers and provolone recalls the enduring power of Bensonhurst’s old-school pork stores." - Hugh Merwin