
4

"I regret that Silver Apricot, Simone Tong’s charming Cornelia Street Chinese restaurant, is no more, but Cora is a happy successor. (Tong decamped; managing partner Emmeline Zhao stayed.) Casual where Apricot was quietly chef-y, Cora seems in some ways a more natural fit for the narrow, slightly space-age space: A few nibbly dishes and a main or two, with enough esoteric touches to remind you who’s still in charge. There’s seaweed in the cavatelli and goat kefir on the buttered radishes. But my favorite items are those that might’ve shown up on your dinner table at home: sunflower pull-apart rolls, crunchy rainbow-trout Milanese. Would you have spooked that trout with smoked gribiche at your place? Probably not. But that’s the hairline difference between homey and home. Cora lives there." - Grub Street