"A compact, narrow lunch-counter space that serves as the backdrop for weekend cocktail pop-ups; its historic counter atmosphere is part of the appeal and a nostalgic setting for snack-forward menus. The site is known for its cream-cheese-and-olive white-bread sandwiches, which continue to make cameo appearances, but converting the space into a functioning cocktail bar creates operational challenges—there is no built-in bar well, so staff rely on a giant rolling ice cooler and inventive workflow to handle service in tight quarters." - Adam Reiner