Kricket is a tale of two halves, and breakfast is the love story - Review - London - The Infatuation
"Go to Kricket Shoreditch in the morning, when the pink interiors work their calming magic and the Indian dishes shine brightest. Before midday, the vaguely Goop-esque room leaves us feeling like we’ve spent the week in an exclusive health spa for frazzled adults. But the evening menu can be hit and miss, with bland biryanis and so-so artichoke samosas. photo credit: Koray Firat photo credit: Koray Firat photo credit: Koray Firat Pause Unmute Chunky candles twinkle, even at 10am, and cups of chai are dispatched to tables sitting beneath huge, moon-like paper lampshades. Cortisol levels drop. People in cosy Toast knits have the city’s most serene business meetings, because it’s impossible to raise your voice while a softly draped linen canopy flutters overhead. Order the Full Kricket, with its thick, meaty bacon chop, dollops of tangy tamarind brown sauce, and warming, saucy chole (chickpea masala). photo credit: Koray Firat However, at dinner we’ve been underwhelmed by one-note tarka dal and slightly greasy laccha paratha. Not that it deters the steady stream of groups shuffling onto shared tables and cheery dates brushing fingers and ordering skin contact Riesling. Still, we recommend to come in the morning for the only calm conversation it’s possible to have about OKRs in this city, or a special-feeling breakfast that’s done more for our fine lines than any 24-minute facial massage routine. Food Rundown The Full Kricket The bacon chop is thick and not overly salty or smoky, so it’s perfect for scooping up the warming, fruity tamarind brown sauce. The eggs are seasoned nicely, the chole is mild and comforting, and the hash browns are crisp, light, and in our thoughts most mornings. The mushroom could be a little more roasted and better seasoned, though. photo credit: Koray Firat Confit Rabbit Leg Biryani A catfish of a dish description. One that promises so much flavour, but ultimately just delivers the taste of sweet, crispy fried onions. Our portion didn’t have much meat either. We did, however, really enjoy the crisp pops from the fried flour balls on top of the creamy, refreshing boondi raita. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Burnt Garlic Tarka Dal Creamy, mild, and perfectly serviceable. But we wanted a lot more flavour. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Duck Leg Seekh Kebab The nutty, toasted flavour of the peanut chutney pairs so well with the tender, savoury duck leg kebab and fresh, lightly pickled salad. We’d order this small plate again." - Sinéad Cranna
