Paffuto Review - Bella Vista - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"Once a roaming pop-up, Paffuto is now the Bella Vista daytime cafe of our dreams. And by that, we mean a place where we devour bodega-esque mortadella breakfast sandwiches on griddled kaiser rolls, work on our laptops with a coffee, and sit back as our productivity loses the battle against puffy, cream-filled maritozzi. While Italian food is about as common in the area as shoppers lugging two-wheeled carts, Paffuto stands out for its panzerotti, pastries, and breakfast sandwiches that you’ll gladly wake up early to get. Unfortunately, that's not the case for dinner. photo credit: GAB BONGHI The charming South Philly shop specializes in crispy fried panzerotti—including a very good breakfast version with scrambled egg and melty cooper sharp—but there are also chicken cutlet sandwiches, agnolotti in a pork broth, and undeniably Philly foods like Italian hoagies for lunch. Paffuto artfully understands that high quality meat, perfect dough, and thoughtful ingredients create something incredibly delicious. There are a just a few tables inside the shop, along with counter seating next to a window. Vintage china and tongue-in-cheek artwork hangs on the wall, including a photo of an old guy getting X-rated with a plate of spaghetti. It's the kind of low-key place where you can linger with a roast turkey sandwich, look up, and realize three hours have passed. photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI Unfortunately, we're not so wistfully reminiscing about our experiences during dinner service. That's when undercooked tilefish, a confusing, chili-oil heavy honey walnut shrimp chittara, and greasy quail make their way to your table. There are two tasting menu options here: a four-course, $45 menu and a nine-course version for $90. We suggest you skip both. Outside of great puff pastry, decent chicken liver mousse, and panzerotti holdovers from the morning, they're both full of misses. photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI photo credit: GAB BONGHI In the daytime friends leave with the roast pork panzerotti in one hand and Eagles-green merch in the other. And at night, it feels like you've gone to a concert where the opening act severely outshines the headliner. If you stick to the pre-sunset hours, you'll find that like water ice, fictional boxers, and old as* restaurants, Paffuto has the goods to climb the city's list of Italian classics. Food Rundown Pastries Daily, you’ll find brioche, jam, and whipped cream-filled maritozzi or strawberry bombolini behind the case on the counter. And while the toppings and fillings are great background singers, the soft texture of the dough is always the star of the show. Order a few topped with cloud-like cream to start your day. photo credit: GAB BONGHI Egg And Cheese Panzerotti Paffuto keeps it simple with their panzerottis: scrambled eggs, cooper sharp, and mozzarella. The crust is light and airy, and there’s a dusting of salt on the crisp, dense shell. Biting into something so warm and gooey is pure perfection. photo credit: GAB BONGHI Crispy Morty We get this stack of scrambled eggs, Cooper Sharp, and fried mortadella on the Kaiser roll, though long Italian rolls are also an option. The mortadella makes this classic breakfast combo a bit smoky and savory. photo credit: GAB BONGHI Pepperoni Panzerotti Do we have to sell you on something exploding with gooey mozzarella, sweet red sauce, basil, and subtly spicy pepperoni? Cool. We didn’t think so either. If you can get one before they sell out, do it. photo credit: GAB BONGHI Chicken Vodka Sandwich Chicken cutlet sandwiches are always on the menu (they also have a Milanese). A fried chicken cutlet is topped with vodka sauce, basil, and mozzarella cheese, all served on a soft Sarcone's roll. The crispy, tender cutlet perfectly balances the creamy sauce and melty cheese. Get one and thank us later. photo credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Black Bass Crudo You'll usually find a crudo on the dinner menu. And there may be interesting preparations, like a masala gelee or the cherry and white wine jus on this particular dish. But even with fresno chili oil, it's boring. photo credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Walnut, Honey, And Shrimp Chittara The good part: the pasta here is gorgeously made. The bad part: it's often tossed in or put on a bed of sauce that will make you wish that life came with a reverse button so you could go back and avoid it. This one is a take on the classic Chinese takeout dish. While the shrimp was nicely cooked, the flavors are a battle between chili oil and cream. And you're the loser." - Candis R. McLean
