EAV's Banshee stands out like a fine-dining rose between concrete - Review - Atlanta - The Infatuation
"In a neighborhood chock-full of casual dinner choices, Banshee stands out like Mariah Carey at a water park. It's a clear favorite for a special date night or celebration meal, and we’re not just saying that because of their appropriately hyped pepperoni butter. (Although we do love it and have a few tubs of the takeout pints in our fridge at all times.) We say it because Banshee consistently impresses with big flavors, seasonal ingredients that go on wild rides, and an upscale but unstuffy atmosphere that keeps the signature East Atlanta Village edge. photo credit: Amy Sinclair A mixed-century collection of light fixtures and dark blue velvety drapes that divide the dining area from the bird-wallpapered bar would certainly make a compelling backstory if the designer had some cohesive theme in mind. It all signals a sense of lighthearted fun, but none of that would matter without the outstanding food. The rotating New American menu shows off dishes like the perfectly cooked New York strip in a pool of sweet caramel onion sauce or the grilled lamb skewers that flash some spicy heat while a strong pineapple tepache glaze cools things off. If the pepperoni butter and easygoing atmosphere aren’t enough to lure you here for dinner, come for late night. Banshee keeps the party going after 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays, with a DJ and a rotating pop-up on the back patio serving late night food. After a few rounds of heavy-handed drinks and bopping around to clubby beats, it may be hard to bring things into focus, but the cherished duality of this place becomes clear. Food Rundown Fry Bread With Pepperoni Butter Once again, please get this bread appetizer. It’s the one unmissable dish, which is convenient because it never leaves the menu. It’s lighter and fluffier than naan, and you should slather it with the salty, smoky pepperoni butter that should have its on fan club and verified social media account. photo credit: Amy Sinclair Grilled Asparagus The thick asparagus is about what you’d expect, but the flecks of wood ear mushrooms with a pastrami spice makes it hearty. The real selling point here is the little bits of pickled asparagus throughout the dish. It’s like hide-and-seek with a delicious reward. Seared Halibut The halibut is well-cooked—flaky on the inside with a nice crispy exterior. But the standout part of the dish is the creamed peas mixed with little doughy pisarei e faso. A creamy yuzu hollandaise on the side makes everything taste tangy and fresh. New York Strip Tender pieces of strip steak piled in a neat row on top of a pool of sweet caramel onion sauce. It’s just a good steak, OK? photo credit: Amy Sinclair Lamb Skewers Little hunks of lamb and pineapple are sprinkled with crushed red pepper and bathed in a tepache glaze. Sweet and spicy perfection. photo credit: Amy Sinclair photo credit: Amy Sinclair photo credit: Amy Sinclair Pause Unmute" - Juli Horsford
