Etch - Review - Downtown - Nashville - The Infatuation
"Etch has been a fine dining staple for well over a decade. And while the iconic cauliflower and sliced venison with filo dough might’ve been revolutionary when they debuted, the city (and its diners) have grown around it. The menu doesn’t change much, which isn’t immediately a negative, but here it feels like one. Sure, proteins are consistently cooked perfectly, and flavor combinations like beet and ginger really sing. But oftentimes plates are over-complicated and sauce-happy, and it’s not uncommon to be confused by the sheer abundance of ideas on one dish. Etch needs an editor. photo credit: Casey Irwin Sitting in the tableclothed dining room is sophisticated enough to work for a special evening out, or when a client is finally ready to talk numbers over an excellent bottle of red. The lounge can be straight up magical at night, especially when you pair some carpaccio with a smoked old fashioned that actually benefits from being smoked. But the kitchen counter seats are unpleasant. Just having an open kitchen doesn’t make watching what’s going on automatically exciting like it does on Top Chef. We’ve often been distracted by loud calls of “SERVICE PLEASE!” and the conversations between staff members that we clearly were not meant to hear. photo credit: Casey Irwin photo credit: Nathan Zucker On the weekends, you’ll be surrounded by folks about to attend the orchestra across the street or people who have just returned and want some dessert. For those situations, especially, Etch is perfect. Food Rundown Duck Tart This is less of a tart and more of a bougie puff pastry hot pocket, served on top and next to multiple sauce options. Most aren’t particularly memorable, and the orange curd is so sweet it feels like starting dinner off with dessert. The duck itself is tasty, but in general, it’s a pass. Octopus & Shrimp Bruschetta One of the staples at Etch and for good reason. The octopus is tender, if borderline mushy on the very outside, and the combination of the rest of the ingredients piled high on the focaccia is wonderful and light. Roasted Cauliflower This roasted cauliflower single-handedly made Nashville excited about eating its vegetables again—an especially huge feat in 2012 when we were all obsessed with candied bacon. It’s got a nice subtle char and is dotted with truffled pea purée, salted feta crema, and red bell pepper essence before being topped with almonds. photo credit: Nathan Zucker Horseradish Caesar It’s always refreshing to see an interesting salad on the menu, especially a unique take on a caesar. But this one is a bit perplexing. It comes in a near comically giant bowl of salad, but the Worcestershire whip is just dolloped in large plops like they didn’t know what to do with it. Yet, it’s delicious and works best when mixed with everything else. Presentation aside, we love this dish. Venison The venison is another Etch classic, and you can count on it to arrive at a perfect medium rare every time. The walnut mint relish on top is a beautiful complement when alternated with the filo, but everything else seems to be on there to make it look like a better value for the nearly $50 price tag. photo credit: Nathan Zucker Pan-Seared Scallops Etch doesn’t need any help cooking proteins, and these scallops are indeed perfect. It’s a nice bite with the curry, and the puree is pretty and tasty, even if added to the side. The relish is a nice acidic punch, and the carrots are majorly spicy. This dish is another plate that takes some effort to get a bite with everything together, but it’s worth it. photo credit: Casey Irwin Apple Sesame Tart This dessert embodies what seems to be the new Etch ethos: all the makings of something great, but just can’t quite get there. The crust is near impossible to cut through, even with a provided steak knife. It’s flaky on the outside, but a layer or two down, and it’s undercooked and tough as nails. For the rest, the tahini, almonds, sesame, burnt honey, and miso just can’t find their rhythm." - Ann Walczak
