"We felt completely lost when Khmai’s original space closed, leaving us to navigate a dystopia without their Cambodian beef skewers. Luckily, this Best Restaurant of 2022 reopened in a new Rogers Park location, and the skewers are still excellent. Old favorites like tangy tamarind short rib stew and chicken and taro egg rolls make a comeback, alongside newcomers like an ASMR-worthy crispy fried snapper drizzled in sweet soy sauce. Khmer clothing gets extra time in the spotlight, as seen in a large mural of an Apsara dancer and worn by hosts greeting people with “Chum reap su.” They don’t take walk-ins, so snag a reservation before visiting and brushing up on your Khmer with the poster of phrases by the host stand." - john ringor, veda kilaru