No menu, no problem at Shin Sushi - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"If you’re the type who likes to scour a menu before going to a restaurant, Shin Sushi doesn’t give much to work with. This subdued sushi bar in Encino doesn’t have a menu—not online, not in person, not handed to you as a souvenir after you finish your meal. Shin Sushi serves the most literal form of omakase (a true chef’s choice), where you eat whatever you’re handed until full, and only then does a piece of paper with the final itemized bill show up. If that level of uncertainty makes you squirm, however, any discomfort will fade fast once you sit down. Not only does Shin deliver exceptional fish at a fairly reasonable price given its quality, but a meal feels like watching a particularly sharp episode of Shark Tank, except instead of product pitches, the quirky owner-chef who runs the place is selling you on cool fish facts. video credit: Brant Cox Since no two meals are the same at Shin, the price is never exactly the same either. Our last visit included a six-bite appetizer platter, miso soup, 13 pieces of nigiri, a slice of tamago, and dessert, all for $208. And that’s a rough estimate of what you can expect to spend per person here, before tax and tip. What you won’t find on the receipt, though, is what happens between courses: endearing chef anecdotes, sushi construction so elegant it feels like a barre routine, and a Snapple cap influx of fun facts. Do you know how much the average Spanish bluefin tuna weighs? Or why is Japanese mackerel best eaten during the summer? You will after a night at Shin. It’s proof that when you put your meal in the hands of a sushi expert at this level, a menu isn't necessary. Food Rundown Appetizer Platter A Shin staple for years, this platter comes with six outstanding bites: chewy Hokkaido conch, firefly squid, silky jellyfish, two kinds of tofu, and the biggest head-turner of all: a fried mini crab eaten like a chip. It’s an impressive spread that sets the tone for the rest of the meal. photo credit: Brant Cox Snapper Course These will likely be your first pieces of nigiri. It’s a special course because the cuts of fish are immaculate, and also because this is when the chef begins to flex his expertise. Learning about the textual differences between adult and baby snapper may not sound thrilling on paper, but the chef makes it as entertaining as a round of Apples to Apples. photo credit: Brant Cox Akami The chef introduces this piece of bluefin tuna as “very melty” and we’re stealing it. Mainly because it’s the most accurate description for what occurred when it hit the back of our tongues. photo credit: Brant Cox Menegi This simple chive nigiri comes about halfway through the omakase and acts as a palette cleanser, along with a side of miso soup. It’s a course that honors the chef’s father, who was a sushi chef in Japan. He also says it’s just grass from his backyard. Chef has jokes. photo credit: Brant Cox Anago One of the final dishes at Shin is not unagi (freshwater eel), but anago, a saltwater eel that’s leaner and more delicate than its famous cousin. And as the chef will explain, it doesn’t need any sauce to cover up its bold flavor. We wholeheartedly agree. photo credit: Brant Cox Tofu Mousse There are two to three desserts available each night, and if you hear this one called out, get it. The chef makes the mousse by hand and plops two scoops over a base of caramelized rock sugar that kind of tastes like liquid Werther’s. photo credit: Brant Cox" - Brant Cox
