Shin Sushi
Sushi restaurant · Encino
16573 Ventura Blvd, Encino, CA 91436
Highlights
Michelin-starred omakase with fresh, expertly prepared sushi
Michelin-starred omakase with fresh, expertly prepared sushi
"A meal at Shin Sushi costs around $240 a head, but if you’re in the market for a once-a-year omakase experience, you won’t find fresher, more unique fish than at this Encino institution. The chef, Take-san, will chat with you the whole time you’re there, probably ask you about your favorite football team, and offer his own predictions for the upcoming season even if you aren’t totally sure what football is. Then he’ll get to work making sushi standouts that include oysters with firefly shrimp, sea eel, and baby barracuda." - brant cox, sylvio martins
"One star. Shin Sushi is one of two Michelin-starred restaurants in the San Fernando Valley. Taketoshi Azami is the lead sushi chef behind the counter at this hidden destination that serves an a la carte menu at lunch and an omakase menu for dinner." - Eater Staff
"If you’re the type who likes to scour a menu before going to a restaurant, Shin Sushi doesn’t give much to work with. This subdued sushi bar in Encino doesn’t have a menu—not online, not in person, not handed to you as a souvenir after you finish your meal. Shin Sushi serves the most literal form of omakase (a true chef’s choice), where you eat whatever you’re handed until full, and only then does a piece of paper with the final itemized bill show up. If that level of uncertainty makes you squirm, however, any discomfort will fade fast once you sit down. Not only does Shin deliver exceptional fish at a fairly reasonable price given its quality, but a meal feels like watching a particularly sharp episode of Shark Tank, except instead of product pitches, the quirky owner-chef who runs the place is selling you on cool fish facts. video credit: Brant Cox Since no two meals are the same at Shin, the price is never exactly the same either. Our last visit included a six-bite appetizer platter, miso soup, 13 pieces of nigiri, a slice of tamago, and dessert, all for $208. And that’s a rough estimate of what you can expect to spend per person here, before tax and tip. What you won’t find on the receipt, though, is what happens between courses: endearing chef anecdotes, sushi construction so elegant it feels like a barre routine, and a Snapple cap influx of fun facts. Do you know how much the average Spanish bluefin tuna weighs? Or why is Japanese mackerel best eaten during the summer? You will after a night at Shin. It’s proof that when you put your meal in the hands of a sushi expert at this level, a menu isn't necessary. Food Rundown Appetizer Platter A Shin staple for years, this platter comes with six outstanding bites: chewy Hokkaido conch, firefly squid, silky jellyfish, two kinds of tofu, and the biggest head-turner of all: a fried mini crab eaten like a chip. It’s an impressive spread that sets the tone for the rest of the meal. photo credit: Brant Cox Snapper Course These will likely be your first pieces of nigiri. It’s a special course because the cuts of fish are immaculate, and also because this is when the chef begins to flex his expertise. Learning about the textual differences between adult and baby snapper may not sound thrilling on paper, but the chef makes it as entertaining as a round of Apples to Apples. photo credit: Brant Cox Akami The chef introduces this piece of bluefin tuna as “very melty” and we’re stealing it. Mainly because it’s the most accurate description for what occurred when it hit the back of our tongues. photo credit: Brant Cox Menegi This simple chive nigiri comes about halfway through the omakase and acts as a palette cleanser, along with a side of miso soup. It’s a course that honors the chef’s father, who was a sushi chef in Japan. He also says it’s just grass from his backyard. Chef has jokes. photo credit: Brant Cox Anago One of the final dishes at Shin is not unagi (freshwater eel), but anago, a saltwater eel that’s leaner and more delicate than its famous cousin. And as the chef will explain, it doesn’t need any sauce to cover up its bold flavor. We wholeheartedly agree. photo credit: Brant Cox Tofu Mousse There are two to three desserts available each night, and if you hear this one called out, get it. The chef makes the mousse by hand and plops two scoops over a base of caramelized rock sugar that kind of tastes like liquid Werther’s. photo credit: Brant Cox" - Brant Cox
"Taketoshi Azumi is indeed the real deal—he's worked for two decades at top spots on both coasts and comes from a family of sushi connoisseurs. In fact, Shin is named for the Tokyo restaurant run by his late father (spot the sign hanging behind the counter).Despite its pedigree, the vibe is laid-back and the joyful chef keep things entertaining, and solo diners feel a part of the crowd. His approach to shari is singular and it makes a delicate base for some of the more unusual nigiri around, like a tiny bundle of Japanese chives tied with crispy nori and topped with bonito. Then look forward to the very rare and lightly torched cherry trout, or sakura masu, which is a marvel thanks to its smoky outer layer giving way to melting richness." - Michelin Inspector
"Shin Sushi is exactly what you’re looking for in a once-a-year omakase spot—incredible, hard-to-find fish prepared in interesting ways, and a memorable experience that’ll tide you over until the next time you decide to drop around $250 on sushi. The chef, Take-san, will chat with you the whole time you’re there, ask you about your favorite football team, and offer his own predictions for the upcoming season. Then he’ll get busy making you a fantastic, fresh meal, including in-season standouts like freshwater trout from Nagano, sea eel, and Mexican uni." - garrett snyder, brant cox, sylvio martins
