"Komal is a casual Mexican food counter that nixtamalizes heirloom corn in-house. That’s quite the flex, like saying you churn your own butter or age cheese in your basement. But Komal’s traditional masa-making process isn’t for bragging rights—it’s the reason their homey antojitos make for a special meal that's also quick and affordable. photo credit: Jessie Cohen photo credit: Jessie Cohen photo credit: Jessie Cohen Compared to other vendors inside Mercado La Paloma near USC—the ones slow-roasting pork and serving uni-topped tostadas—Komal is relatively simple. Walk up to this yellow counter and you’ll see fresh tortillas inflating like balloons on a hot plancha, smelling delicate and fragrant like maize-scented candles (the tortillas are also used at seafood spot Holbox across the hall, a staple on our 25 Best list). The space doubles as a tortillería, too, so you can pick up a dozen of them on the way home from work. Just be sure to set aside a few minutes to order something delicious from their kitchen. Before you have time to model one of the bedazzled Dodgers caps for sale next door, a server arrives with wicker plates carrying Komal’s hand-patted gifts, like chewy bean-stuffed tlacoyos topped with handfuls of cotija and nopales, or a squash blossom quesadilla laced with juicy sweet corn. If you want something heftier, the Taco Sonia is a full meal on a fresh oversized tortilla, loaded with a grilled strip of beef shoulder, crumbled longaniza, and a big splat of salsa roja. Every dish on the tight menu is something you'd likely find at a traditional Mexican street vendor, but Komal’s attention to detail sets it apart. The quality of the masa, smoky mole, and salsas are impossible to miss, the same way it’s impossible to be disappointed by one of their delicious cucumber agua frescas and a melty blue corn quesadilla for lunch. Food Rundown photo credit: Jessie Cohen Tlacoyos Most of Komal’s dishes involve tortillas, so switch things by getting these oval-shaped masa cakes stuffed with beans. They have toasted, slightly chewy edges and a soft, airy center. The filling is well-seasoned, too, and you get a big mouthful of juicy nopales and salty cheese in each bite. photo credit: Jessie Cohen Taco Sonia One of the few times we’ve been handed utensils with a taco was after ordering this, which should give you an idea of how hefty it is. It's less of an “antojito,” and more of a meal on a tortilla. The grilled beef shoulder and crumbled longaniza dribble their juices out the sides while the roasted salsa roja shoots a trickle of heat into your sinuses. As good as it is, it's a lot of liquid for even a jumbo-sized tortilla, so eat this before it turns soggy and collapses. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Molotes de platano Plot twist: a dish at Komal with no masa. Less of a plot twist: it’s very tasty. These fried balls are made with sweet mashed plantains and stuffed with molten cheese, which go well with smoky, slightly spicy mole negro pooled beneath them. Quesadilla de hongo These oyster mushrooms are a nice meat-like protein substitute in this quesadilla, but they could use a sprinkle more seasoning. The melty quesillo and beautiful tortilla are still the best things about this dish. photo credit: Jessie Cohen Quesadilla de flor de calabaza Our favorite quesadilla. The squash blossoms are subtle, but the fresh corn inside is so sweet we want to shake the hand of the farmer who grew it (and maybe send them a fruit basket). photo credit: Sylvio Martins Mole Con Tortillas If this dish sounds simple, it’s because it is. It’s just warm, rolled-up tortillas and a bowl of mole negro for dunking. The lack of distractions lets you appreciate the little pleasures, like how soft the tortillas are or the mole’s subtle dried chile smoke." - Sylvio Martins
