Playful and bold, Ernest serves one of SF’s most exciting dinners - Review - San Francisco - The Infatuation
"Ernest is a hard restaurant to categorize. Unless “Everything Is Phenomenal” counts as a category, the closest point of comparison is Rich Table (which tracks, since the chef/owner of Ernest was their head chef for five years). But trying to put Ernest firmly in one box doesn’t really matter—what matters is that each dish that hits your table is more playful and unexpected than the next. Coming here is a little like eating at Rich Table’s younger, sexier cousin. And it’s also one of the most exciting places to have dinner in SF. Let’s start with the menu. The dishes are seasonal and subject to change depending on what’s good at the market. There are clear Asian influences throughout, which you’ll see in the carbonara-esque lo mein, or the aged beef and bone marrow dumplings. There’s also a raw bar section, which covers everything from oysters and clams to Kaluga caviar with tater tots and crème fraîche. You might give yourself whiplash watching plump Parker House rolls or perfect uni spoons getting whisked across the dining room. And you’ll probably do a double-take when you see the beef tartare topped with glistening, bright orange ikura pass by in all its shiny glory. You can order a la carte, or if you’d rather leave the decision-making in the hands of the kitchen, go big with the $99 chef’s pick menu. It’s a 10-ish course meal with generous portions and some special off-menu items, and you absolutely will need to be rolled home afterward. Each course is portioned out depending on the size of your table so you can share every dish family-style. photo credit: Erin Ng photo credit: Erin Ng But the food isn’t the only reason to come here. Sitting in the dining room at Ernest feels like getting an invitation to the coolest supper club in the city. The restaurant is located on an industrial corner in the Mission, in a nondescript building that’s easy to miss if you’re not looking closely. But once you step inside, you’re greeted by a bright two-level space, a bustling open kitchen, and a wall full of miniature maneki neko cats lined up like soldiers, waving their tiny little robotic paws at the diners below. (They’re cute, but at Ernest, where ownership is white, the cats feel mildly tokenizing.) Service is attentive without being overbearing or too formal—there are no white tablecloths or stuffy energies here. Just a lively buzz in the air that’s relaxed and fun, like your best friend’s housewarming party, or a cool wedding reception with unusually great food. It won’t matter if you’re coming to Ernest for a big anniversary date with a reservation you made a month out, or if you decide to walk up to the bar on a random weeknight and treat yourself to some oysters and a glass of natural wine. Whatever the case, prepare to be treated to a dinner that’ll surprise you in the best possible ways—and make you find a reason to return before you’ve even finished. Food Rundown photo credit: Erin Ng Beef Tartare Layers of perfect sushi rice, beef tartare, and ikura are neatly stacked and served alongside some nori, so you can make handrolls. It’s textured, flavorful, and almost too stunning to eat. photo credit: Erin Ng Parker House Rolls Plump, golden-brown, and still warm from the oven. If the Ernest menu was a high school, these rolls would sit with the cool kids. photo credit: Erin Ng Pork Tonkatsu One of the heartier entrées on the menu (with rotating toppings), this pork tonkatsu comes topped with green goddess dressing, chunks of juicy heirloom tomatoes, and a heap of fresh herbs. It should be on your table. Koshihikari Fried Rice What goes in this side dish varies depending on, you guessed it, the season. We’ve had one version dotted with almonds, others with peas or corn, and they’re all excellent. Brokaw Avocado It’s easy to be tempted by the promise of a showy avocado topped with roe or shiitake XO sauce, but this isn’t a must-order. Your focus is better spent on the other brighter, punchier sides. photo credit: Erin Ng Soft Serve Life-changing. Soul-curing. Epiphany-inducing. There aren’t enough dramatic hyphenated phrases in the dictionary to describe our love for this creamy dessert. A tall swirl of hazelnut and vanilla soft serve arrives covered in a crunchy hazelnut praline sauce, then chocolate magic shell is poured over it all, tableside. Get this. Shave Ice The creative takes on shave ice include riffs off strawberry shortcake, key lime pie, or matcha tiramisu. Whatever you choose, the massive bowl arrives looking like an icy hot air balloon draped in whipped cream. If you prefer your desserts frozen, you’ll like this." - Julia Chen
