"As much as we secretly love the smell of gasoline, the scent at the Shell station at Vineland and Vanowen in North Hollywood is unrivaled. That’s because Swinging Door BBQ lives next door, a saloon-themed, Texas-style spot that runs a double-barreled smoker in their back alley and perfumes the whole block with oak and apple wood. Combo plates are the move here, and we suggest getting one with fatty brisket that falls apart with one chomp, crisp-skinned baby backs that slide off the bone, and burnt ends that should be renamed, “fatty beef bits with a nice char.” Add a side of brothy, onion-y collard greens plus mac and cheese and it’ll be the best money you’ll ever spend near a gas pump." - brant cox, sylvio martins, nikko duren
