The Alston - Review - River North - Chicago - The Infatuation
"Chicago is at a near-intervention point when it comes to steakhouses. But in a sea of cut-and-paste, giant-baked-potato-business-dinner places, The Alston is a welcome addition. This new spot from the chef of Esmé mixes fancy steakhouse nostalgia with “this ain’t your average experience” touches. So, along with usual suspects like tableside bread service and caviar bumps, there are freakishly tall martini glasses and a jarring choose-your-own table candle moment at the beginning of dinner. The dishes are more straightforward, but are very good. Like the escargot that balances its saltiness with tasty mini butter pastries on top, and a cherry-glazed porterhouse that's perfectly tender. The Alston does have a sometimes-silly artsy side—there are images of the Bean and Venus De Milo projected on the ceiling. Still, it’s refreshing to feel caught off-guard (in a fun way) by a steakhouse in 2025." - Nick Allen
