"This is Ogawa's sister restaurant, although it's not exclusively an omakase restaurant like its sibling. Not only does Hiyakawa’s counter seating offer a better view of the chefs than anywhere on this guide, but it’s a quiet, peaceful space where you’ll have no trouble devoting your full attention to the delicious plates in front of you. Nigiri makes up the bulk of Hiyakawa’s omakase—and it’s phenomenal. There was a back-to-back sequence of scallop and fatty tuna that almost made us fall out of our chair. Most bites here—which range from a tempura course to bluefin tuna served in a soy sauce and sweet sake broth you will slurp from the bowl—have that effect, and Hiyakawa really delivers everything we want in a $200-plus omakase. Cost: $250 per person." - ryan pfeffer