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"Mao Hunan in Loreto is easy to miss—the sign out front is subtle and a holdover from the gelateria that once occupied the space. Opened in 2015 by a Chinese-Italian couple, it was the first of several Mao-owned locations to bring regional Chinese flavors to Milan. The space is tall and narrow, buzzing with young diners passing around fiery Hunan dishes. Beef lung, chicken feet, and pork intestines nod to Lombardy’s own nose-to-tail tradition, where offal once anchored everyday menus. Don’t miss the fragrant eggplant with century egg, served in a pestle and mortar for you to muddle tableside, or the spicy, numbing cabbage with pork belly." - Elizabeth De Filippo-Jones