Akara Review - London Bridge - London - The Infatuation
"There’s a new stall, sandwich, or something or other coming out of every crevice of Borough Market these days, and not all of it is worthwhile. But Akara has something about it. The modern West African restaurant performs in fits and bursts, like a sputtering firework that shoots out glowing pepper sauce and golden black-eyed bean fritters. It’s located in the gleaming Borough Yards development, a place that feels about as lived-in as an Apple shop, and the restaurant itself feels too clean and characterless at times. Still, families pile in here at night and swaying couples wander in for the bar. The cacao Negronis go down a treat. The restaurant’s namesake—a light but bread-y fritter loaded with delicate crab meat—is the best bite you’ll have, while mains wander off a bit. A short rib suya is wonderfully cooked but its yaji and pepper sauce feel toned down. A BBQ cod collar is over and a grilled cabbage is a grilled cabbage. Depending on luck, you might be shoved in a spotlight-lit corner, or you’ll be in the middle of the restaurant lounging on a banquette. There are variables at Akara but, like its sibling Akoko, when it’s right, it’s making food unlike few other London restaurants. Food Rundown photo credit: Jake Missing Crab KuliKuli Akara This black-eyed bean fritter will be a revelation at everyone’s table. The fritter is sliced in half, like a little doughnut sandwich, and stuffed with rich, velvety white crab meat. Do not order this to share. We repeat, do not order this to share. Short Rib Suya, Charred Onion, Sweet Pepper Sauce Wonderfully tender and liberally dusted with yaji, this short rib suya is an irresistible plate. The stickler in us wants more: more chilli from the seasoning, more oomph from the sweet pepper sauce. But as is, it’s a great dish." - Jake Missing
