"In a year when we always felt like we needed to know what was going on, there was something especially alluring about a restaurant that doesn’t even give you a menu. Fradei originally opened in 2019 with a nine-dish a la carte menu before making several pivots during the pandemic. As of March of 2021, this Fort Greene spot now serves a $90, five-course tasting menu that changes every three weeks. You won’t know exactly what you’re in store for, but expect this place to intentionally draw your attention to vegetables even when meat is lurking nearby. These vegetables might come in the form of a beet bordelaise or a soup with apples and razor clams that employs a broth made with leftover scraps of squash. Whatever vegetable-forward dishes you happen to receive, you’ll enjoy them as you sit in a space that looks like a pirate ship usurped by hot French people with nothing but wine and All-Clad pans in tow." - hannah albertine, nikko duren, carlo mantuano
