"Still just in soft-open mode, Bong is already one of the year’s most exciting new restaurants. Formerly a pop-up, the Cambodian spot in Crown Heights releases limited reservations while they find their footing. That shouldn’t take too long, considering the menu is already stacked with hits. For a big feast in a tiny room, order most of the menu: fried shrimp in tart mango sauce, lightly battered squid in velvety salted egg yolk, a delightfully fatty pork chop soaking in tuk trey ping poh, and a crisp whole fried fish. The Tierra Whack/A$AP Rocky playlist makes it feel like a party, as do the couple who run this place: one butchers lobster in the open kitchen, while the other can recommend a fun wine." - will hartman, willa moore, molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, sonal shah