"Le Central is a small brasserie keeping it simple with wine, cocktails, and hearty French comfort dishes. What you’ll get here at this long-standing Financial District restaurant is good, but not spectacular. The cassoulet is intriguing (according to a sandwich board outside the entrance, it’s been cooking for nearly 18,000 days), but with stewed beans, duck and lamb confit, and pork shoulder it’s a mixed experience. It’s fun getting different textures in every bite, but it gets a lot less fun when those bites all taste the same. Instead, get the petrale sole with a zingy lemon and capers sauce and the garliky escargot. The beef bourguignon falls apart almost at the sight of a knife and fork, but it’s often too salty and the red wine overwhelming. If you have room for dessert, the only one worth getting is the tarte tatin. Otherwise, finish the night with a glass of wine or a digestif instead. The dishes here feel stuck in time, but in a good way, and the menu feels appropriate for Le Central’s rustic and retro dining room with exposed brick, giant chandeliers, and white tablecloths. Reservations are typically easy to get any day of the week if you’re looking for a relaxed date night. Food Rundown Escargot de Bourgogne Swimming in a thick pool of butter, garlic, and parsley, the snails have just the right chew. As an added bonus, these guys come with bread service (with more butter on the side). Cassoulet “Le Central” We feel let down by Le Central’s signature dish. The cavalcade of meats, including duck leg confit, lamb, pork shoulder, and sausage all have very similar textures, making them hard to tell apart from the accompanying beans. Cassoulet isn’t on every French menu in the city, so if you’re curious, give it a shot, just temper your expectations. Poulet Rôti Straight forward and solid: chicken, vegetables, and frites. The chicken is moist with a crispy skin and the veggies and fries are perfectly fine. You won’t be weeping from joy eating this, but you won’t be shedding tears of disappointment either. Sole Meuniére The best seafood dish on the menu. The sole is flakey and pairs nicely with a classic lemon and capers sauce. We just wish the portion was a little bigger. Tarte Tatin Bland and dry, but saved by a moisture-giving scoop of vanilla ice cream. We suggest skipping dessert and filling up on a second serving of sole." - Patrick Wong
