"LA has the market cornered on high-end sushi in strip malls—see Sushi Sonagi, Go’s Mart—but even by those standards, Kusano is a diamond in the parking lot rough. Run by a sushi chef with a long resume, the eight-seat counter (reservations required) occupies an unmarked unit in a generic shopping plaza. It also offers a fantastic deal. The 18-course omakase costs $150, which isn’t cheap, but could probably cost twice as much at comparable spots. Step inside and see why: the room is storage-unit sparse, and it’s basically just you, the chef, and some light jazz from a bluetooth speaker. Expect pristine, straightforward nigiri with occasional flourishes, like sweet shrimp with electric blue roe, sea bream with cured egg yolk shavings, and uni draped with a translucent sheet of squid. We haven’t been here yet, but want you to know this spot exists." - Garrett Snyder
