Cactus Wren is a caviar-topped enigma wrapped in a flour tortilla - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"Cactus Wren is playful. A neighborhood restaurant. Somewhere you can eat a few slutty snacks. Those are their words, not ours. Cards on the table, we don’t know what kind of place this is. And there’s something thrilling about that. This Lower East Side restaurant from the Sixty Three Clinton team serves langoustine beignets, a chicory salad with fish sauce dressing, and seven-layer bean dip under a mound of golden osetra caviar. The menu is unclassifiable, and even if some of their wilder gambles don’t pay off, Cactus Wren is a cool place to try something new. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute If you’re looking for food that isn’t afraid to take risks, stop by and toss a few darts at the menu. That $75 bean dip doesn’t quite escape gimmick territory, but the fried shrimp toast and mortadella tartine under a blizzard of parm are unmistakable hits. Pair them with something from the offbeat wine list, like a pinot blanc or pruney zinfandel. Glasses are a bit pricey for a humble neighborhood spot, but even if we’re still piecing things together, we can tell you that's not what Cactus Wren is. Food Rundown Maryland Shrimp Toast Greasy and golden brown, with a thick layer of shrimp glued to the top, this toast is a fantastic little snack. photo credit: Kate Previte Berkshire Short Ribs Cactus Wren’s larger dishes can go either way, but you'll enjoy these meaty ribs served over a sweet salsa roja. The cornbread is the highlight, and it gets bonus points for being cactus shaped. photo credit: Kate Previte Pizza What do you do when you inherit an enormous pizza oven from a previous tenant? Make a few pies. Cactus Wren's pizza isn't bad, and they offer some interesting toppings like comté and morels, but there are so many better options within walking distance. If you do want one, try the version with romesco and nopales (pictured above). photo credit: Kate Previte Seven Layer Dip We’re glad this dip exists. It makes the world a more frivolous place. But you don’t need to order it. Caviar and buttery housemade tortillas aside, there isn’t much to get excited about. photo credit: Kate Previte" - Bryan Kim
