"Verdict: On a small side street in Chinatown, Four Kings is a modern Chinese spot from some Mister Jiu’s alums that manages to soar above high expectations with their new spins on Cantonese classics. The seven-day dry-aged squab is intensely crispy, the XO escargot has enough sauce to soak the fluffy milk bread it comes with, and the beef chow fun is perfectly stir-fried. A meal here is fun and casual—’90s Canto-Pop is the only thing that comes out of the speakers, and Cantonese film and music posters line the walls. Four Kings takes walk-ins at the 10-seat counter all night, and it's easier to snag one of those seats on the later end (after 9pm). Reservations are released on OpenTable three weeks ahead at midnight." - julia chen 1, ricky rodriguez