"Verdict: Four Kings feels like it’s ushering in the next generation of Chinatown restaurants. The Cantonese spot nails the trifecta of funky, salty, and sweet flavors in all of their dishes—just look to the XO escargot with a side of milk bread, or the claypot rice that’s amped up with chicken fat rice and a poppy-orange egg yolk. You’ll have to project over the sounds of Canto-Pop and clinking of osmanthus-spiked highballs in here, but that’s exactly what makes a night here so much fun. Four Kings takes walk-ins at the 10-seat counter all night, and it's easier to snag one of those seats on the later end (after 9pm). Reservations are released on OpenTable three weeks ahead at midnight." - julia chen 1