"After five visits over six months, we can safely say we’ve never had the same meal at Leopardo twice. When the loosely Cal-Italian spot in the former La Brea Bakery space opened, they served cheeky high-low dishes like waffles with caviar. Then came the splurgy pizzas topped with uni, followed by a short-lived lunch service and a pivot toward simpler pies and pasta, with a bunch of operational adjustments in between. None of these shifts would matter if Leopardo had found its lane and settled in. But save for a handful of great dishes and potent cocktails, there’s too much unevenness at Leopardo for it to warrant a definite spot in our dinner rotation. There’s a tension between Leopardo’s neighborhood pizzeria schtick and the fact that the place is run by the chef from Angler, who is best known for artfully rugged dishes of high-end seafood and wild game. Sometimes this casual-luxury contrast pays off, especially in the creative cocktails, which are the best things here. Those boozy, intensely flavored drinks are followed closely by the menu’s raw dishes, like a lean deer tartare laced with chile oil and a caprese made with smoked tomatoes and cream-rich stracciatella, two typically mellow dishes that get punched up in unexpected ways. photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp But even the enjoyable cocktails and small plates subtly hint at Leopardo’s main problem: the kitchen doesn’t always know when to dial it back. Overaggressive flavors aren’t necessarily an issue when you're downing a dirty martini that’s close to uncut pickle juice, but it’s much more apparent with the larger dishes. Chewy, mochi-esque pizzas with crusts puffy enough to double as life preservers are texturally spectacular, but the salty toppings and salty cheese crust add up to seasoning overkill. The same goes for entrees like wild boar meatballs, spaghettini, and barbecued chicken—all blasted with a similar combination of salt, olive oil, chiles, and sharp wood smoke that feels like “Turn Down For What” playing on repeat at full volume. The first few bites grab your attention, but halfway through, you’re reaching for your water glass. We’re still hoping Leopardo finds its groove, but we wouldn’t send anyone here without serious caveats in the meantime. Pop in for a low-stakes night of fussy but nice oysters, strong drinks, and a kitschy-fun 80s soundtrack, and you’ll leave a bit poorer but not unhappy. We can’t say the same for a full meal. Food Rundown photo credit: Jessie Clapp Cocktails Is it fair to call Leopardo a drinking spot with a dinner problem? Highlights include the delicatessen-in-a-glass that is the Filthy Martini, the crystal-clear Chocolate Springwater with rum and mint, and the rhubarb negroni served in a teacup. They’re $22 each, but so intense, we’re rarely tempted to order a second round of the same drink. photo credit: Garrett Snyder Ice-Cold Oysters Sometimes an oyster is just an oyster, but these briny ones from Morro Bay stand out for what’s on the side: pickled seaweed granita. The slushy substance tastes like umami-boosted cucumber brine and is a perfect match for the oysters. At $6 a pop though, they aren’t cheap. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Deer Tartare Unless you own several camo hunting jackets unironically, raw deer meat might be a tough sell. It shouldn’t be. The minced venison tastes clean and earthy, wtith some toasty warmth from chili oil. It comes with a big salty cracker brushed with herb oil, but we’re happy eating the tartare as is. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Cali-prese 2010 There are three salads at Leopardo: a solid caesar with whole romaine leaves, an extremely basic pile of greens with lemon dressing, and the clear winner, a caprese riff with cherry tomatoes wood-roasted until soft, honey vinegar, and gooey stracciatella. Sometimes the smoky-sweetness veers too close to barbecue sauce territory, but it’s a clever combination. photo credit: Garrett Snyder Stracciatella Bruschetta More stracciatella and we’re not mad about it. Bread slices are griddled until they resemble french toast, bathed in fancy olive oil, then topped with fresh milky cheese and sweet fruit jam (persimmon on our last visit). photo credit: Jessie Clapp Wild Boar Meatballs Salt, smoke, and chiles are a recurring seasoning trio at Leopardo, but these spicy meatballs in a sticky-sweet reduced tomato sauce take it too far (imagine huffing salty crumbs from a bag of barbecue potato chips). It’s a shame because otherwise, these are some pillowy soft balls. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Neo-Mochito Pizza With their big bulbous crusts and toasted cheese shell, you could pick out Leopardo's puffy pizzas from a lineup blindfolded. They’re a lot of bread, but we appreciate their nice supple chew. You’re handed a pair of fabric shears to cut your pie, which sounds whimsical but is kind of a pain (as in hand cramps). Stick with the classic margherita over the salty marinara pie pooled with smoky ham-infused tomato sauce. photo credit: Garrett Snyder Breadcrumb Spaghettini There’s a clever twist going on in this fresh pasta dish: extra-browned breadcrumbs are toasted in pork fat so they taste like bacon, which gives the dish a carbonara-esque quality when combined with the runny egg yolk and parmesan. Unfortunately, it’s also a major salt bomb. photo credit: Garrett Snyder Barbecue Half Chicken Nearly inedible. This smoked chicken topped with fried bread chunks arrived overcooked and rubbery, and coated in so much salty chili rub that it looked like an extra from a slasher movie. There’s also a side of salt-heavy fermented chiles on the side, in case you didn’t get your fill. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Frozen Soft Serve Something sweet and soothing is extremely necessary at this point, and this lush, silky soft serve arrives like a knight in shining armor. Get the one that comes with a Biscoff sandwich (an improved version of what they give you on Delta flights) and a side of rum honey for drizzling." - Garrett Snyder
