"What Enfes Ocakbaşı lacks in crushed velvet seating and complimentary sütlaç, it makes up for with an unapologetic focus on superbly grilled meats and bubbling, chilli-smeared flatbread. The ocakbaşı restaurant on Harringay Green Lanes is more canteen-like than some of its snazzier neighbours and we like it all the better for this reason, not least when a pile of warm, glowing bread and an array of thoughtful, flavourful salads hit the table. Meat is grilled expertly here and the adana and the lamb’s liver are particularly good." - rianne shlebak, sinead cranna, jake missing