"A pair of old-fashioned, wire-rimmed glasses painted on the facade of Go Nonna sends a clear message: It may not look like it, but this is grandma’s house. The small Long Island City restaurant offers a blend of Italian and Argentinian cooking, leaning more heavily towards the former. That said, with Fernet and Coke on the menu, and a replica license plate from Argentina hanging proudly in the bathroom (“PIPI ROOM”), there’s no mistaking Go Nonna for your average red-sauce joint. Yes, there's impeccably crispy chicken parm, and a tiramisu that achieves the golden ratio of mascarpone to espresso, but you'll also find steak with zingy chimichurri. Stick with the simplest dishes—especially the fresh pasta and desserts—and you’ll enjoy a supremely comforting, generously portioned meal, worthy of a favorite grandchild. Skip the meatballs, which are a little bland, but get the lightly charred endives, grilled right to the edge of bitter and sweet. That way you can look your reflection in the eye and say, “Yes, I did eat a vegetable today.” Nonna would be so proud. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Food Rundown Chicken Parmigiana An impeccably crispy slab of chicken served with a simple, no-notes marinara. Sure, you could eat at Go Nonna without ordering this, but we wouldn’t advise it. Ravioli Di Fonduta E Spinaci Al Pesto Genovese It’s not the prettiest plate, but this may be our favorite pasta dish at Go Nonna. Triangular pockets of creamy fontina and spinach filling are tossed in a pesto that’s unusually herbaceous but not overpowering. Bavette Al Limone Con Gamberi E Zucchine The shrimp are good, but they aren’t the main draw—this dish is all about the bright and garlicky lemon sauce, and the al dente, lightly browned zucchini. Pappardelle Al Ragu Di Carne Don’t be catfished by the deeply beefy flavor that the braise lends to the sauce. The short ribs themselves are a little dry. Bistecca E Fritte We like the steak ($31), which has a nice crust (even if our mid-rare was more of a medium-plus), but we love the zingy chimichurri." - Molly Fitzpatrick
