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"My most pressing craving is the hot-and-sour soup from Lao Ma Spicy: a large disposable bowl (priced $4.99) packed precariously full of glass noodles in an intensely flavorful broth—hot in temperature and spice, scarlet with chili oil and vinegar-sour; for a few dollars more you can add beef, shrimp balls, or Spam, but the finishing touches—dry-roasted peanuts with papery brown skins, sweet steamed bok choy leaves, and an intoxicating spoonful of ground pork sautéed with wood-ear mushroom and pickled radish—are what haunt my daydreams; the vendor also specializes in dry pot (brothless, cooked to order), which is worth trying too." - Hannah Goldfield