"It would be easier to pigeonhole Guevara’s, in Clinton Hill, where the menu is also loosely Mexican, and whose Web site advertises it as “vegan forward”—which is to say, vegan. It’s been a while since “Portlandia” went off the air, and yet the world continues producing fodder for it: the other day, as I lunched on Guevara’s torta milanesa, made with breaded eggplant instead of the usual chicken or beef, and nachos wearing squiggles of cashew crema, my view was of a sandwich board, placed directly outside the café’s front door, advertising the obscenely fleshy porchetta sandwich available at Mekelburg’s, a meat-centric restaurant on the next block. Guevara’s also trades in pricey houseplants and grocery items, including cans of Gardein-brand “plant-based be’f & vegetable” stew. But Guevara’s had the last laugh. The nachos—optimally sturdy, salty tortilla chips strewn with black lentils, olives, avocado, and jalapeños, in addition to the crema—were excellent, as was the young-coconut “ceviche,” tender slips of the meaty fruit, cured in citrus, with avocado, mango, and cilantro." - Hannah Goldfield
