Ron W.
Yelp
Up for a modest challenge? Find a parking spot. (Public parking behind the resto). I used a phone app to pay. It was easier getting an audience with King Trump in the Offal Office.
The restaurant is positively gorgeous and you'll agree as soon as your cat eyes adjust to the dark. Muted soft greens and teal tones will channel your months in the womb. (Its a womb with a chew).
Think a mini Providence. "Hey Mom, they shrunk my fave resto." There is a six seat Bar which anchors the dining room and small two tops line the walls giving it an Orient Express dining car feel.
The decor is elegant, sophisticated in a retro style. The Chinese elite would be regulars here before WW2. So, iron your Cheongsam and be a regular now.
88 is a lucky number in Chinese culture. This place will soon be so hot you'll be lucky to snag a table.
The distant throb of a sensible loop adds to the hip vibe without being intrusive.
The Staff: The Hostee was as sweet as Milk Tea and she will greet and seat you quickly. The Servers would be at home in service to The Emperor without being obsequious sycophants. Austin was a polished expert in genuine hospitality. Humorous and helpful. Can't decide, sit back, hand the menu to Austin and let him curate a magnificent meal for you.
The Bar: Full of promise. Signature cocktails that aren't full of themselves. No Periodic Table ingredients. There is a deep wine list. I hope you have a deep pocket.
First off, I enjoyed a frisky Whiskey Sour with Bourbon, Hibiscus Aperitif, Ceylon Tea and Orange Blossom Honey. My Internist might even approve of this. No matter, I did.
Next, my Mai Tai was balanced and not the cloying sweet thin syrup in less capable hands. So, Mai Tai one on.
Who's in the house? Mei Lin lackeys. Beverly Hillians and a sprinkle of smart diners who want all the signature creations before that special 88 dish is 86 by 7:00.
The Food: In the shade of Nightshade which broke my diner's heart when Covid drew the night shade closed.
88 Club offers Northern Chinese food with a touch of Hong Kong in it's heyday , Singaporean, (Newton Circus chic), a little K-Chow and anything else Chef Mei Lin and her confident, playful, serious team can and will create.
Note: Want a cup of plain White Rice? $7. Want a small cup of Chili Crisp? $4. Either smuggle in a jar of FlybyJing and pay the Crispige fee, do without or just suck it up and be a player.
This is a pricey place to start with so why not raise the cost of each dish by a buck and offer Rice and Chili for free? Just sayin'.
The Shrimp Toast lands on every table. This version elevates whatever shows up on a Mah Jjong Buffet. This plate turns "Fair Food" into a magisterial experience.
This is Toast Texas Toast stuffed with ground Prawn, deep fried greaseless and crisp enough to loosen the Bridge you're still making payments on. It's topped with a Hersey Kiss of Sweet and Sour Sauce on one end and sinus clearing Horseradish Mustard Aioli on the other end. Not to be missed by rational adults.
The Rice Cakes are soft little flat pillows of wannabe Gnocchi with threads of Gai Lan (Chinese Broccoli), and Garlic Chives. Often such a dish is basically nothing more than a plug of savory Double Bubble Gum. Not here. Reach for the Chili Crisp and enjoy the gentle chew.
The Fish Fragrant Eggplant wasn't remotely fishy. It was terrific. Eggplant Fingers with charred crispy edges, and a creamy Eggplanty center. This dish alone warrants a quick return trip here while my 88 luck holds.
Nam Yu Roasted Chicken with Ginger, Scallion Oil Relish and Soy arrived next. Succulent and moist the Chicken gives similar offerings around town the Bird. Do not fail to order this beast. It transforms something potentially forgettable into something memorable.
The Iberico Char Siu Pork with Hot Mustard. (The kind that showed up as a dot in a cup of Ketchup when your peeps took you to the local Chinese joint as a kid and ordered a doughy Eggroll). The Pork was fanned out on the plate and was so delicious that God would wink and smile at any Orthodox Rabbi who surreptitiously ate it all.
Finally, full as a Tic, I asked for the Mango Coconut, Sago (pearls of starch from the pith of a Sago Palm) and Pomelo. This dessert was the most interesting, brave and unique concept begging the question; How can something so wild and weird be so wonderful?
I'm joining the 88 Club, join me.