Culinary S.
Yelp
We both our visits here. Not only are the dishes tasty, but they also offer a chance to break out of the usual rut of commonly available meats.
THE RESTAURANT
This is a small space. The wood floors, brick walls and soft lighting create a modern rustic feel and cozy atmosphere. At peak hours there's the lively buzz of chatter, so it may not be the best place for private conversation or a romantic date, but one can still hold a conversation if you're comfortable raising your voice a couple of notches - or reserve a little early.
PRICE:
Falls into the category of treating oneself, without becoming a splurge, unless you make the effort of aiming for the priciest options on the menu. Apps range from $12 - $18. with a few cheaper options (soup/cheese) and decadent foie gras at $22.
Pastas are in the $26 range, and portion sizes leave enough room for dessert. A number of mains are available in the $34 range, but venison and bison dishes have a higher tariff (about $42). The burger and mushroom risotto are $19.
THE FOOD:
A number of items on the menu are foraged with his own hands, such as leeks, mushrooms and nettles. Rumour has it he prepares his own maple syrup at a friend's farm. There is an engagement with the ingredients we feel all people could benefit from. As a result, dishes have a distinctly "Wilds of Canada" theme to them.
While Chef Hunter, apropos his name, is indeed a hunter -none of the dishes served are wild meats. These farmed animals lack the gaminess of their truly wild counterparts, which can be off-putting to the newly initiated.
As with many finer restaurants, the portions are made assuming you intend to have 3 courses, though sharing an appetizer and a dessert is never a bad road for those with lighter appetites. The portions of pasta are on the lighter side so you might want your own appetizer.
DUCK HEARTS - Don't let this scare you; heart may sound unusual but it really is just a muscle. If you love duck, then duck heart is a must try. The meat is juicy with a slightly firmer texture while managing to be very tender. The unique flavour of duck is a bit more concentrated, and the Yakitori preparation imparted these with a slight sweetness.
WILD MUSHROOM TARTE TATIN: Flakes of cooked butter barely held together by flour form a pastry that almost instantly melts over your tongue. It holds delicious wild mushrooms, a personal obsession of ours, which are both firm and packed with flavour paired with the sweetness of caramelized onions and leeks.
VENISON - Serving venison with a thin crust of ash is a classic presentation. The smoky earthiness of the ash gives a sense of being cooked in fire that grilling simply can't, and the mild bitterness adds a rich and deeply satisfying umami quality. The venison itself was beautifully cooked, with a stunning dark red colour. While it was quite lean it was also very tender. It was served on perfectly prepared, pureed parsnips, the natural spiced sweetness of these veggies quickly became rather addictive. A really nice touch was braised neck ragu, a beautifully flavoured meaty sauce. This made for a very gratifying and filling dish.
RICOTTA CAVATELLI WITH WILD BOAR RAGU: The wild boar is braised into tomato, which allowed the meaty taste to infuse into the ragu. The ricotta cavatelli reminded us of a richer gnocchi with a lovely soft texture. Served with all the umami pleasures of parmesan and aromatic fresh basil.
BRAISED RABBIT PARPADELLE - Served with buttered leeks and sautéed greens. If you've never had it, the texture is very similar to that of chicken, but it doesn't doesn't taste like poultry... it tastes like rabbit. Silky, extra broad parpadelle noodles are coated in the delicious braising juices, with verjus apricot preserve to add complexity. Verjus (a sour juice, used in place of lemon juice or vinegar) has been used in cooking since the middle ages; it brightens the flavours of a dish, and its sourness can help balance sweet and savoury notes.
GAME BURGER: Made using a combination of wild boar, bison, deer. It was delicious, but the taste is hard to describe, it definitely didn't taste like any burger patty we've ever had before. The juicy, full mouth flavour went beautifully with the hot mustard, duck egg aioli, and house smoked cheddar. A real delights, and a great find for people who yearn for new flavourS.
STRAWBERRY SEMIFREDDO - Marvelous. It's semi-frozen so it's cold without being biting. It has a fluffy creamy texture - think of it as a mousse that might have been put in a fridge for a little bit. It had a gente sweetness and concentrated flavour of strawberries. It was served with a spiced meringue that had the texture of a spongy cracker. It's a wonderful sharing portion that could easily give three people a sweet ending after a very filling meal.
CINNAMON BUN ICE CREAM SANDWICH: A fresh flaky flaky cinnamon bun wrapped around glorious ice cream, with a salted caramel sauce. To die for!