Sophia Schlette
Google
Thank you for a fantastic dining experience!
6/5 stars from me.
How did I find this place? It’s small, opened by a woman chef, tucked into a quiet residential street uptown, a neighborhood still awaiting or avoiding gentrification. Apego is Portuguese for attachment. And boy, did I get hooked last night!
I had asked my culinary friends at Churchill’s wine bar for restaurant recommendations, so here goes my growing attachment story:
The first plate was four 4 amuse gueules from the kitchen: a mushroom empanada, a French-inspired mini onion quiche, a minuscule courgette, and a fresh cucumber-carrot shot on the sweeter side. My favorite? The quiche.
Starter # 1 turned out to be a panzanella improvisation - inspiring me to replace smoked bell peppers with really, really oven smoked eggplant puree. Delightful.
Starter # 3 is a really tiny plate: mackerel, raspberries, crème fraiche, and a little herbal-leaf looking like a kid’s x-mas tree drawing. It’s called “target” and I’ve never tasted anything like it before. I’ve also never eaten a Christmas tree branch in my life. Plus I never knew I’d be eating - and loving it - Mackerel. Raspberries. And Crème fraiche. Together.
My friendly wine waiter, Victor, has a tough time pleasing me though: I made it crystal clear that I didn’t want to go anywhere near a natural wine (a fashion that has hit Porto, as have opulently sized plates “for sharing”… ironically they describe them as tapas, except that you’re full with two. I think that’s tricking you into eating more rather than trying more). He made me try it anyway, and as always, I didn’t get it. I can’t savor the grape, it looks pale, and it tastes as most in various stages of fermentation. This one was on the sour side. I don’t get it, I really don’t. Leave alone the hype.
But I digress.
I’m loosing count, but next up is a Corvina, and it’s awesome. More than a filet it looks more like a steak, wrapped in a leak leaf roll - think a bigger size sushi - together with a green herb paste, it comes with a white wine sauce and, on a separate side plate, a mixed bean salad is served. Green long ones and very likable cocoa like ones with a lemony vinaigrette - the third vinaigrette I fell in love tonight (after the tomato vinaigrette and the raspberry vinaigrette, to keep track).
What followed - I think this is a second main course- is displayed around a red wine reduction in the middle of the plate. So surrounding the red pond, I found a pink piece of pork shoulder, a Cajù (aka cashew nut) creme with blackberries, and a grilled miniature corn. Culinary creativity knows no limits…. And I love the disconstruction and re-construction of everything.
On a separate plate was mashed potato role - think cannolo - sprinkled with spring onions. Normally potato mash is a favorite soul food but this time I passed. It had a very strong cheese mixed into it, competing over attention with the other pork companions.
Dessert # 1 - the call them desapego / detachment
Blackcornhoneycrumbs.
Olive oil ice cream, a scoop.
Dried fennel greens, edible (the waiter made sure I knew everything on the plate was edible), white and crunchy. Incredible combination of texture and flavor.
All of which came under a tent of white merengues.
Dessert # 2
Hazelnutmousse, apricot compote under a Belgium butter biscuit, topped by a desconstructed praline. I’m told I have to destroy this little pyramid with an ordinary spoon.
I walk down Rua Santa Catarina with a big smile and a lot of flashy tasty memories to write down. Plus I don’t know if they should rename the place - I’d rather think of it as Saudade.