Steph C.
Yelp
I was in Hawaii last week and had a fantastic dinner at Bar Maze. I went with a Honolulu-based colleague and his wife, who treated a group of us to this lavish meal while we were in town. He said it was one of the best restaurants on the island, and I believe him.
We had an 8:00 reservation on a Thursday night and the place was quietly abuzz, with an elegant, upscale atmosphere. The dining room was beautiful in the sleek way of high-end sushi bars, with lots of blonde wood and tastefully deployed textiles. Service was excellent, and I'm sure it didn't hurt that we were with Maze regulars. We even got to meet Chef Ki, who was the kind of well-mannered young Korean man beloved by ajummas everywhere.
The restaurant offers an a la carte lounge menu, but the main dining area is omakase only. There's a nightly tasting menu with a few supplements, as well as an optional drink pairing, built around light cocktails instead of wine. You can also order your beverages a la carte.
I was all in on the Bar Maze Experience, and loved the cocktails, which were creative and not too boozy. They reminded me of the seasonal, produce-forward cocktails I've had in Japan. I found the pairings interesting and thoughtful. Something different, in a good way.
Dinner started with a trio of snacks, every one of them superb. A plump Ichiban oyster came with calamansi ponzu and thin slices of cucumber. The potato croquette was crispy and golden, topped with egg yolk emulsion and smoked trout roe. The bourbon barrel smoked salmon toast was outstanding, an apparent house specialty, the salmon lightly seared and melt-in-your-mouth unctuous. The paired cocktail was easy and refreshing, made with stonefruit, pomegranate, rose, sake, and champagne.
For our first course, we had Jeju hirame with fresh summer turnip kimchi and somen, a fancy play on Korean hwe naengyun, a cold noodle dish with sashimi I always enjoy. I liked the hirame and the crisp, mild kimchi. The cocktail pairing was smart and complex, with strawberry, elderflower, tomato water, shochu, reposado tequila, and citrus. I don't know how this worked, but it totally did.
The chef sent out the supplemental wagyu "musubi" on the house, and I'm glad he did because this was probably my favorite course of the night. The "musubi" was a translucent blanket of richly marbled raw wagyu draped over rice and nori, then brushed with egg yolk and a sweet house tare sauce. A reputation maker of a dish, absolutely unreal.
The second course brought succulent Kona lobster with a sweet corn butter sauce, served with a side of fluffy brioche. A frothy gin cocktail went well with all that sweetness and butter. It was made with mandarin, yuzu, lilikoi, aloe, shishito, gin, and egg white.
The third and most substantial course was the Washugyu flat iron with local banchan. This was the Maze take on Korean barbecue, the tender, flavorful steak served with a lovely platter of banchan-like bites and condiments, all of them delicious. There was a fresh lettuce wrap touched with soy sauce, a garlic scape jeon with parmesan, pickled beet a la Thai papaya salad, purple Okinawan sweet potato purée, and a dollop of house ssamjang. There was a choice of red wine or cocktail for this course, and I went with the cocktail, an Old Fashioned variation with bourbon, koji-demerara, and cacao bitters.
For dessert, there was "peach melba" shave ice with peach cheong and embered cream, sweet and refreshing. Then, as a final send-off, a bowl of stones and chocolate bon bons that looked dangerously similar to the stones. The bon bons were made with chocolate, bourbon, and activated charcoal, and helpfully garnished with mint leaves. Very cool and very tasty.
This was a wonderful dinner, and Bar Maze is a special place. I plan to come back with my husband next time we visit Oahu.