"Chefs Jacques Varon and Max Lappe play with fire at this tucked-away restaurant in the Heights — and earning Michelin recognition while at it. Spain’s Basque Country meets Japan at Baso, where an ideal meal begins with freshly baked Baso buns with Calabrian chile and Manchego cheese, and entrees like the bluefin tuna with Carolina Gold Rice, Calabrian puree, and yuzu Kosho egg yolk. Finish the meal with a rich slice of Basque cheesecake, served with or without a scoop of caviar atop its caramelized crust." - Brianna Griff
"Baso feels moody and primal thanks to its open-fire kitchen, and the tartare here is no different. The Basque restaurant subs in an earthy, rich cut of venison for beef, tosses in some flame-smoked deer heart, and balances it out with a pepper punch of fresh nasturtium and crunchy smashed sunflower. It somehow marries the Cro-Magnon grunt of “Fire, good,” with delicate styling and fresh flowers. And to that, we raise a glass of funky Spanish wine. How to get in: Plenty of reservations are open at 5pm or 9pm, but for prime-time seating, you have to plan at least a week, if not two, in advance. It's easier to find a walk-in spot at the kitchen counter." - chelsea thomas, gianni greene
"Baso is a rarity in Houston. The Heights restaurant is stripped bare and serves Basque-Nordic-Japanese catnip for the Noma crowd. And while minimalist spots with a fondness for cuisine hyphens and dimpled glass bowls can be pretentious, Baso pulls it off with soul. Deceptively simple-looking dishes stand your tastebuds at attention, prompting you to ask, “What the f*ck did I just eat?” This is no temple to tiny plates. It’s a food laboratory disguised as a cool restaurant for slinky little date nights or natural-wine-fueled gossip dinners. But where some people in a space like that might infuse ego, Baso infuses flavor. And each bite hums. How to get in: Plenty of reservations are open at 5pm or 9pm, but for prime-time seating, you have to plan at least a week, if not two, in advance. It's easier to find a walk-in spot at the kitchen counter." - chelsea thomas, gianni greene
"Baso makes small plates seem sultry and a little Paleolithic thanks to the entire place feeling like a cave with a live fire grill in the center. Reading the cocktail descriptions on the menu and the self-aware phrases like “tropical vibes” and “hello, old friend” clued us into Baso’s dry sense of humor. Bread service, red deer tartare, bluefin tuna with crispy rice, pompano with guindilla peppers, and a tarta de queso. Staring into the glow of an open flame, tiny dishes with huge flavors, and hanging out in chic caves. How to get in: Plenty of reservations are open at 5pm or 9pm, but for prime-time seating, you have to plan at least a week, if not two, in advance. It's easier to find a walk-in spot at the kitchen counter." - julie takahashi, chelsea thomas, gianni greene, chelsea thomas, gianni greene, chelsea thomas, chelsea thomas, gianni greene, chelsea thomas, chelsea thomas, gianni greene, chelsea thomas, gianni greene
"Prepare for the heat at this Basque restaurant in the Heights, where the simplicity of live-fire is the secret sauce. Chefs fan the flames as they sear A5 wagyu and char prawns before theatrically sprinkling them with preserved chile, garlic, and lime. Start with the Baso buns, served with manchego and cultured butter, and a dish like its seasonal crudo — or the peach. Plated with a combination of cow and goat cheeses and horseradish with honey and lychee, Baso’s decadent honey-bruleed, halved peach could serve as dinner or dessert. Tip: Reserve a counter seat to get a front-row view of the action." - Brittany Britto Garley