Jae L.
Yelp
Classically classy, understatedly romantic, and simply delicious--the perfect for our 12th anniversary dinner.
Although there is only indoor seating, Margot diligently observes Covid precautions like social distancing, entryway hand sanitizer, and common-area masking. When I made the reservation, they asked if we had been vaccinated. So I felt safe dining indoors for the 1st time in forever.
I love the dining room of clean grays, whites, & black with a few bright accents of a "moutarde" yellow to give the place a modern glow. The staff was friendly without being intrusive, and every need was met before we felt it.
The amuse bouche was a lovely asparagus vichyssoise --a cold soup with a base of puréed potatoes and leeks with cream and stock. Not too rich, not too grassy: every ingredient was perfectly proportioned.
My husband started with an oxtail crisp sitting pretty in a bright burgundy (?) sauce and topped with frisee. My husband said he could have eaten half a dozen of these. The "crisp" he described like a pastry--a smooth, melt-in-your-mouth-like-butter pastry--filled with braised oxtail. Now, we don't know if it actually was braised, but we are big fans of braised meats, so this is high praise. And that sauce? Plate-lickably delicious. I would buy a bottle of that and put it on an and everything.
So I've been craving escargot since before Covid came to town, so I almost wept with joy when I saw it in the menu. (I was supposed to go Paris last spring, and I've bitterly thought about all the escargot, tartare aller-retour , and calves liver I've been cheated out of...) And this escargot Bourgogne was textbook perfect. To my mind, the perfect escargot should simply let a few bold flavors sing out clearly without drowning one another. The garlic, the parsley, the butter...it was so good that I shamelessly broke up the crust of my bread and squished it into the pan to soak up the extra. I came *this* close to tipping the pan to let it all dribble into my mouth...but the social distancing wasn't so far apart that I could do this without embarrassing myself, so I refrained. Just barely. One must maintain some standard of civilized manners in these confusing times...
My husband loved his duck. I asked him what he liked best about it, and he replied, "the fat."So clearly, you will have to rely on my summation from the small bite I shared from his dish: the fat was indeed perfectly crisp, the meat was to-the-second perfectly cooked (over-cooked duck is the worst!), and the cherry sauce was was the perfect foil for all the well-balanced flavors.
My husband did remark on the remarkable freshness of the spring vegetables--tender-crisp shallots, peas in the pod, carrots and whipped potatoes . He downright loved the cherry sauce. It would be hard for anyone not to.
I ordered the moules frites --musssls steamed in white wine and garlic, but I got the works with cream, chorizo & peppers for a few bucks more. Now, I love garlicky mussels, but so many times, I've been disappointed by vapid mussels in a ho-hum sauce. But Margot has it down to an art. No need to swallow a spoonful of broth just to make the mussels palatable! The mussels themselves tasted like they had been injected with garlicky goodness. And not a single one was overcooked. And fresh? Oh, yes, so fresh--and I say this with the authority of one who grew up by the ocean!
But let's talk about the fries for a second. I love the idea of fries, I love the *ideal* of fries...but I never order fries because a girl can only have her heart broken so many times before it won't mend. But here, all my fry dreams were fulfilled. Seasoned just right and still crisp and satisfying when the meal was over, these fries were perfection.
I kind of wish we had skipped dessert. The meal had been so dream-like perfect, you know? But we got greedy...
My husband's tarte chocolat menthe with fresh mint custard was good. The mint custard was light, almost like a whipped cream, and tasted like the freshest mint-infused cream with just a ghost of sweetness--it was magical. But I found the chocolat tart heavy and overbearing, it's pastry a bit thick, almost sulky. We both enjoyed the house-made peppermint chocolate chip ice cream--I wish one could order just that for dessert.
My tartlette meriguee au citron was, um, tart. But it's supposed to be, I get that. Maybe my southerner's palate has been spoiled by tooth-achingly sweet ice-box lemon meringue pies, because I almost couldn't finish this one. I wanted more meringue, I needed more sugar. And the Meyer lemon sherbert made my mouth pucker and squeal. Others may love it, but it just wasn't for me.
But I will not let a too-tart lemon tartlette stand in the way of my declaring Bistro de Margot to be my new favorite restaurant in the Burlington area. It even might be my favorite in all of Vermont, but before I decide that, I should visit a few more times. I'm looking forward to it.