RayTarantino
Google
Since 2016 I have journeyed to El Capricho and each visit renews my awe. José Gordón’s warmth, vision and relentless pursuit of perfection turn a meal into something almost ceremonial.
The steak tartare is an immediate showstopper. Perfectly balanced, it somehow manages to be rich, fresh and addictive all at once. The texture is silky yet substantial, and the flavour opens up in waves, each bite making you wonder why all tartares are not made this way.
Then comes the roasted bone marrow, an unapologetic indulgence. It arrives glistening, golden and fragrant, crowned with fresh pink grapefruit and a touch of jalapeño. The combination is pure genius, the citrus slicing through the marrow’s buttery depth while the jalapeño adds a sly, lingering heat. It is like velvet meeting fire, a contrast that makes you pause after each bite just to smile.
The cured tongue is a quiet triumph. Tender, delicately seasoned and with a gentle smokiness, it melts away before you realise how much you want another slice. And the cecina… paper-thin slices of air-dried beef, deep ruby with marbled edges, that release a wave of umami, smokiness and minerality with every chew. This is not just charcuterie, it is edible history.
Then the chuleta. This is where El Capricho becomes legend. A mature working ox, raised with time and respect, dry-aged to perfection, presented in thick slices of lean, juicy meat. The fat is taken away to the grill, transformed into smoky, golden strips that return to the table while you savour the lean. Pairing the two is an experience beyond description, a flavour that is primal and elegant at once, with layers that unfold long after you swallow.
Yes, it is on the pricier side. But it is worth every cent, not just for the quality of the food but for the philosophy that underpins it. Here the animal is honoured, tradition is preserved, and flavour is elevated to its absolute peak.
They call it the best steak in the world. I cannot say I have tasted them all, but I can say it is the best steak in my world, and the second best is miles away.