Austin B.
Yelp
tl;dr each cut of carnitas offers a mouthwateringly rich flavor, but these street tacos are expensive and otherwise unmemorable
Despite their widespread popularity in Los Angeles nowadays, Carnitas El Momo stems from humble beginnings. Romulo "Momo" Acosta began serving up his famed family carnitas recipe out of a bucket as a weekend side job back in the 70s. More recently, the younger generation of Acostas has expanded the operation into a food truck and brick-and-mortar location.
Nonetheless, an unassuming stand can still regularly be found off their Fairmount at their Boyle Heights home. The pop-up sits underneath 2 well-worn, mismatched E-Z Ups. Order at the serape-lined table, littered with a makeshift cash register, a stack of styrofoam plates, a large aluminum can of chiles en escabeche, and a milk crate filled with other taco accompaniments. The staff accommodates both Spanish and English, and accepted payment methods are cash and Zelle. Further down are 2 more tables dedicated to food prep, complete with large stainless-steel trays, a thick and sturdy plastic cutting board, and an industrial kitchen scale. Each check is prepared to-order, and the staff chop meats and stuff tortillas before your eyes. A single mini folding table, adorned only with a napkin dispenser and two plastic chairs, rounds out the decor. Spanish language music blasts from within the house. The trim menu offers a host of pork carnitas options -- maciza (shoulder), cuerito (skin), buche (stomach) -- sold by the pound or incorporated into tacos, mulitas, and tortas. A limited variety of canned drinks and bottled waters are available in a cooler.
A buddy and I visited Carnitas El Momo for weekday lunch, and we were immediately surprised by the long line stretching down to the corner. We baked in the summer sun for nearly 30 minutes before placing our order, at which point a staff member alerted the queue that they only had the ingredients left for tacos (no mulitas or tortas), and that the remaining supply of buche was limited. We optimistically opted for 1 of each taco variety, and we lucked out as the last portion of buche covered us for 2 tacos mixtas and 1 taco buche. Our tacos were bundled up in aluminum foil and tossed into a bag with cinched baggies of accompaniments and ramekins of salsa.
Immediately, I was impressed by the variety of carne -- the classically meaty maciza, the tender and buttery cuerito, and the savory and chewy buche. The tacos mixta combined these into their self-proclaimed ultra-rich "Aporkalypse," channeling each meat's inherent strengths. While the flavors of each meat were spot on, textural variety was noticeably lacking -- only the buche offered an exciting chewiness to contrast the limp, lukewarm tortillas. Further, the salsa roja was mostly forgettable flavorwise but packed an overwhelming spice.
The street tacos are relatively expensive at $4 each, but each is generously loaded with meat. However, outside of the flavor of the meat, I left feeling relatively unimpressed. While the mulitas could perhaps rectify some of the tacos' shortcomings, I don't anticipate a return visit in the future.