Sammy B.
Yelp
It's said breakfast is the most important meal of the day; it should also be one of the tastiest. In the past few years we've seen multiple trends come and go for breakfast and brunch. Souffle pancakes were a delight, stuffed French toast was fancy, and who doesn't love mimosas that are both colorful and bottomless? Dim sum, however, is a meal unlike any other and one that's been around and loved for ages.
Being the third Chef Tony location and the newest, the mix of hotel styling and upscale restaurant chic took over the dining room floor. Porcelain white tables with black chairs matched the uniforms of the servers in the restaurant. Everything was clean and no sight of the dim sum carts could be seen. When the server came with a menu it was evident this experience would be a bit different than the heckling needed for food. Here at Chef Tony you order from a menu and then send it to the server to bring you your food. Though not as interesting (or stress inducing) as flagging down the cart ladies this made it more convenient and gave you time to enjoy each item coming to you. This wouldn't be the last example of unconventional either as we continued onto their food.
I ordered many of the classic dim sum cuisine here: BBQ pork steamed buns, spareribs in black bean sauce, sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaf, and minced beef wrapped in rice noodle. These are comfort foods and all these items hit the spot. Each dish combining multiple flavors, especially the one-two combo of sweet and savory. These are the dishes you would expect to find at any dim sum restaurant. It was when they took a classic and spun it on its head that the unconventional happened.
The lava salty egg yolk bun had a matte black exterior with a small stroke of gold on top, almost like the chef took a tiny brush and stroked it with decadence to match the taste awaiting on the inside. The bun itself had a nice chew to it which didn't buckle easily with a bite, but wasn't tough either. The runny egg on the inside dripped with flavor giving a salted richness with every bite. This was both a visual splendor and a flavorful one.
Another spin on a classic dish was their deep fried Chinese donut. These are usually long, doughy interiors and crispy exterior donuts with no seasoning on the outside. Traditionally used as a dipping component with hot soy milk, the ones at Chef Tony are deconstructed. These donuts were sliced into bite size pieces, hollowed out, and steamed shrimp is on the inside with a savory and creamy dollop of mayo on top. The crispiness is ever present but the savory flavor of the shrimp mixed with the creaminess of the mayo makes it enjoyable as it dances around your tongue. One of the best items here and uniquely special, this dish is hard to find an equivalent elsewhere.
Finally, the deep fried steam bun (yes, sounds like an oxymoron) with a side of condensed milk was fascinating. Presented beautifully in a row these tri-cut buns were colored a beautiful walnut from the frying process. As you pull apart a piece and dip into the condensed milk you're surprised by how rigid and crispy the exterior is, but how easily they crumble when pressure is applied. Yet, it's the taste which takes you to another world. The creamy sweetness of the condensed milk mellows perfectly with the sponginess and crispiness of the bun. Your mind takes you to a sunset in the fall with a hot coffee awaiting you to compliment this dish. You're having a moment and when it's finished you want another bite to experience it again. This is simple, but next level.
Once all the food came out I finally started to look around at the other tables and realized the restaurant was full. Not only was it full but there were numerous families waiting to get in and everyone was Asian; both good signs for a dim sum restaurant. The rush hour had arrived. Overall, I ordered 10 dishes with the final bill coming just under $85 before gratuity. Though that makes Chef Tony a bit more expensive than most dim sum restaurants, the quality and innovation can be seen and tasted.
When I went to Chef Tony I didn't have much expectations. I simply wanted to try a new dim sum restaurant in an area I've grown accustomed to throughout the years. I'm glad I did because this restaurant was a fresh experience. For those who want to experience dim sum without the stress of fighting for your food, this is your spot. For those who are experienced with dim sum and want to try a different take on some of your favorites, this is your spot. Who would've thought a restaurant inside a Courtyard by Marriott would be impressive, but if you did, then this is your spot.