Michael J
Google
One of the oldest Classic French Elegance with Unforgettable Sauces in Tokyo, Japan
I first discovered this restaurant thanks to a casual conversation with Chef Sugita of Sugita, who recommended it to me personally. Despite its historical significance, this traditional French establishment maintains an understated presence, exuding a quiet, old-money elegance. The decor is classic yet unpretentious, while the atmosphere remains lively and inviting—a rare combination that immediately made a strong impression on my first visit. I didn’t take many photos back then, but this time, I felt it was worth sharing.
The lunch course, priced just above ¥10,000, offers remarkable value in both quality and portion size—this is, after all, a Michelin-starred restaurant. What fascinates me most about traditional French cuisine is the sauce, and here, the sauces are nothing short of divine. Each one is layered with such depth of flavor that I found myself scraping the plate clean and still wanting more.
The first course featured a single slice of cherry trout. At first glance, it seemed almost too simple—perhaps even stingy—but the sauce transformed it entirely. The complexity of the flavors, combined with the delicate texture of the fish and a subtle graininess designed to complement its softness, had me eagerly anticipating the next dish: lobster.
The lobster was presented in two styles—one warm, one cold—with each portion impressively generous. Every diner received a full serving, including claw meat. Paired with asparagus, multiple sauces, textural garnishes, and crisps, the dish was simply outstanding.
The main course delivered even more intense flavors. My kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) came with squid and a risotto richly infused with sauce—so flavorful it eliminated the need to scrape the plate. Had the kinmedai been served with crisped skin, it would have been perfection. My companion’s sea bass was a surprise standout—the texture was so unique, it felt as though crispy crumbs had been folded into the flesh, creating a tender yet sandy-crisp mouthfeel reminiscent of a Chinese liu sha bao (salted egg custard bun). Truly fascinating.
Finally, the beef cheek was the definition of “melt-in-your-mouth”—tender, gelatinous, and wonderfully elastic when gently shaken on the fork.
If I had to point out areas for improvement, they’d be minor details born from high expectations: for example, the timing of dish service across the same table could be better synchronized, and the plating of the beef cheek could be more refined. But these are small critiques—reflections of how much promise and excellence this restaurant already shows.
