Jason F.
Yelp
Discovering Ciccino is like discovering a whole new world of Italian cuisine that I didn't even know existed. Located on the corner of California and Hyde Streets in San Francisco's Nob Hill neighborhood, Ciccino means "little piece of meat" in Italian and refers to chef and owner Gian Marco Cosmi's father dining on steak "ciccia" sandwiches for lunch as he worked his town's local plumber, and was the envy of said town, which made Marco and his siblings being known as "ciccino". Cosmi, who cofounded Italian Homemade Company and previously worked at Acquerello and Rich Table, new restaurant focuses on the cuisine of Northern Italy and the region of Emilia-Romagna, and he wanted to showcase a menu that reflected the way that locals really eat from where he hails from. Already making top lists of exciting new restaurants in the city, what brought our party of eight people to this new establishment was a recent birthday for one person in our party, and the fact that the Infatuation SF food blog wrote so highly about it recently, which only piqued our interest. Getting reservations for our large party was easy enough, as they also take walk-ins if you are willing to wait, as things were slow going on the weeknight. We ate here at roughly seven in the evening, but when we left at nine, every table was filled with customers.
The menu at Ciccino is separated into categories including Antipasti Caldi or warm appetizers, Antipasti Freddi or cold appetizers, Primi or pastas, Secondi or entrees, and Dolci or desserts. We knew our large party wanted to share a few dishes for our first course and we ordered four orders of their House-Made Focaccia, which was rosemary focaccia served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar; two orders of their Fritto Misto which was lightly fried shrimp, white cod, calamari served with charred lemon and an aioli dipping sauce; two orders of their Scallop Skewers which were binchotan grilled scallops dredged in breadcrumbs, garlic and olive oil; and one order of their Caprese Salad, which was tomatoes topped with buffalo mozzarella, capers, olives, basil and balsamic vinegar. For our entrées, both I and many of my fellow diners were intrigued by one of their signature dishes which was their Ravioli Carbonara, which were cream and egg yolk filled ravioli topped with pecorino foam and served with guanciale. Others ordered their Passatelli, which was breadcrumb, egg and parmesan pasta, served with porcini mushrooms and a balsamic reduction; their Pappardelle Lamb Ragout which was hand-cut pappardelle pasta served with a braised lamb ragout, and their Pasta con le 'Sarde', which was spaghetti pasta topped with sardines, fennel oil, fennel seeds and breadcrumbs.
Our appetizers came out first per usual, and they were richly composed dishes that were full of flavor and rich character. The bread was beautifully toasted, and the fritto misto provided a nice balance of deep fried seafood. Both the Caprese Salad was your traditional Italian favorite and the scallops felt so lovingly prepared that this shared first course only made us more excited for our main course, which unfortunately would take a considerable amount of time, which we attributed to the kitchen crew continuing to work out the kinks of being so new and popular. Thankfully, we had glasses of white wine with our server's recommendation of the full bodied Roero Arnele San Defendente to keep our spirits light. When dinner finally did come out of their open kitchen area, the highlights as to be expected were our Ravioli Carbonara, which were so rich in composition as both the sauce and foam were paired in perfect unison, our only issue was that the sauce was so good there was no way to sop it all up. One dish that didn't sing was their Pasta con le 'Sarde', which didn't hit too many right notes with our one diner who ordered it.
Thankfully, we still had room for some Dolci and since we had two choices, we wanted to order multiple serving of their two options their Panna Cotta which was honey infused and topped with stone fruit, and their Tiramisu Mousse which had whipped mascarpone, espresso soaked savoiardi and cocoa powder, but they only had one Tiramisu left, so it was one order of the latter and two of the former. The latter was the star of their Dolci menu as it was the most wonderful combination of flavors that I have enjoyed, plus they warmly put a birthday candle on top so we sang along. With the Panna Cotta, the less said the better, as it had an odd aftertaste to it, after we let their serving team know, they graciously took those two orders off of our final bill, which was high but not unreasonable, which only made of evening full of memories of a wonderful meal with good company, ambiance and cuisine. At Ciccino, something special is happening, and here's to more locals being able to experience what they have to offer.