Coda di Volpe

"It’s no secret that the Southport corridor part of Lakeview is known as “Stroller Row,” since it’s so popular with young families. And lots of restaurants here fit in with the whole “suburban lite” thing, in that they seem like they’d be right at home in a mall (or a mall’s parking lot): they’re generic-looking, with lots of space and giant menus meant to appeal to anyone and everyone. On the surface, Coda Di Volpe looks like it could be one of these chain-y spots, but it actually happens to have great Italian food. You’ll get the chain feeling right when you walk in. The space isn’t unpleasant, but the decor is neutral, in beige and green, and it looks ordinary enough that it could be transplanted just about anywhere and still fit in. It’s a big place, full of booths that will probably be occupied by parents and young kids if you come here early. There’s also a huge bar at the front, and if you’re here on a weekend night, you can count on it being full of couples determined to enjoy themselves before getting home to relieve the sitter. photo credit: Sandy Noto After all that, though, the suburban-chain similarity ends. Coda Di Volpe is putting out some definitely-better-than-chain-quality Italian food, starting with their Neapolitan pizzas. These are cooked in a wood-fired oven at the back, where there are counter seats available if you want to watch. The pies are served uncut - you’ll get a pair of scissors so you can cut them yourself. After you get over the performance anxiety brought on by this responsibility, you’ll discover they’re fantastic, with crispy bubbled crusts and great toppings. Other dishes on the menu are equally good. It’s not a heavy, red-sauce kind of place - most of the food here actually feels light and refreshing. The wood-grilled octopus, for example, is simple and great, and the arugula salad with fried almonds and pickled, roasted grapes, is something you’ll genuinely like rather than something you feel like you should order to balance out all the pizza. Pasta dishes here are also very strong - try the bucatini arrabiata. There are a lot of fantastic Italian restaurants in Chicago, so we wouldn’t travel to Lakeview just to have dinner here - we prefer eating in neighborhood joints that have a bit more character. But Coda Di Volpe is a really good spot on Southport to have in your back pocket, especially if you’re eating with a group (of children or adults). It’s never too late in life to brush up on your fine motor skills, after all, and it’s a hell of a lot more fun cutting pizza than construction paper - ask any kid you know. Food Rundown photo credit: Sandy Noto Fig and Ricotta Bruschetta We’ve had quite a few “meh” bruschettas in our day, but this one is really good. It has fresh fig, ricotta cheese, and proscuitto. photo credit: Sandy Noto Arugula Salad This is light and refreshing, and even if you’re not into salads you should consider having it on the table. Fried almonds give it texture, and the pickled and roasted grapes give it a great sweet/sour balance. photo credit: Sandy Noto Octopus Every server tells you to order the octopus. Here, you actually should. It’s tender, delicious, and just a little bit spicy. photo credit: Sandy Noto Margherita Pizza If you plan on ordering only one pizza here, get the margherita. The simple ingredients show off the perfect Neapolitan crust. photo credit: Sandy Noto Quattro Fromaggi We’re fans of having both a red and a white pizza on the table. This is a good white pizza that comes with arugula on top for health. photo credit: Sandy Noto Bucatini Arrabiata This version has the usual tomato, garlic, and chili pepper, with the addition of pancetta and cooked down red peppers and zucchini. It’s really good if you like a little spice. photo credit: Sandy Noto Branzino This comes topped with a pile of stuff: a pine nut and currant soffritto, shaved fennel, raisins, and orange slices. It all works, acting like a salad that complements the perfectly-cooked fish." - Adrian Kane

"Southport Corridor is a family-friendly neighborhood, so any meal you eat around here will probably involve kids—yours or someone else’s. Going to Coda Di Volpe, which serves very good Italian food like wood-fired pizzas and housemade pastas, is no exception. The dining room is large, with plenty of tables, big booths, and room for high chairs. Just keep the scissors (which you use to cut your pizza at the table) away from anyone young enough to throw a tantrum if they lose a game of War. Including your 30-year-old brother." - adrian kane, nick allen

"The Southport stretch in Lakeview is a family-heavy area, so on any given night you might find yourself eating in a restaurant full of children. This Italian spot is no exception, particularly because it’s a large space with plenty of room for strollers. The pizza here, which you cut yourself with scissors, is excellent—the crust is chewy and crispy in all the right ways—and there are also great pasta dishes and mains. Just keep the scissors away from the kids." - sam faye, adrian kane, john ringor, veda kilaru

"Though it’s named for an obscure wine grape, this dressed-up Southern Italian eatery dishes up crowd-pleasing fare, from wood-fired pizzas to charcuterie and pastas. Its hefty brown leather booths are designed for snuggling into with a group, while the massive front bar draws solo diners to commune with a bowl of outstanding nettle and ricotta ravioli.Pizza lovers will thrill to the Neapolitan pies, including the classic Margherita as well as a spicy diavola. Served piping-hot from the oven, with scissors for cutting at the table, they’re ideal for sharing. But any peace accords may be broken at dessert, when tables fight over bites of the s’mores-inspired caramel budino, with its addictive chocolate graham and toasted marshmallow topping." - Michelin Inspector

"Perfect For: The Friend Who Always Brings Their Kids Children are a treasure, each one is a precious gift, and they’re usually nightmares to eat with. If your friend shuns iPads and insists on distracting Topher with wooden toys that all children hate, go to Coda Di Volpe, an Italian restaurant in Lakeview. It’s a child-friendly spot where Jesse can start screaming and no one (except you) will mind. The best things here are the Neapolitan pies that you cut at the table yourself, so just keep the scissors away from Abigail." - adrian kane