Cook's Tortas

"Cook’s in Monterey Park does things a little differently. Their warm housemade bread is closer to ciabatta, and there are plenty more filling options than the traditional milanesa and asada (although they have those, too). At this casual sit-down spot, a torta can come with blackened cajun fish, BBQ pulled pork, or salty bacalao (cod), which tastes like the best-ever version of tuna casserole. The menu includes nearly 20 options, but the unique bacalao—which pops with roasted garlic, sauteed peppers, and olives—might be our favorite." - sylvio martins

"Unlike many other spots on this guide, the bread at Cook’s in Monterey Park is handmade every day, and doesn’t resemble the fluffy telera rolls that most torta shops use. The bread here is actually more similar to a ciabatta roll and is the perfect vehicle for their bacalao torta. This fishy sandwich consists of spreadable salted cod that pulls apart like delicate shredded beef. If intense fishiness sets off alarms in your head, fear not because the saltiness is never overpowering. In fact, the bacalao really complements the sandwich’s mayo and buttery potatoes that add nice texture to the sandwich - along with bits of roasted garlic, sauteed peppers, and green olives for a great briney finish. Overall, this torta feels like a homemade fish casserole smeared inside a bread roll, and has us rethinking how great a fish sandwich can really be." - Sylvio Martins

"Monterey Park sandwich staple Cook's Tortas is much more than just a place for meat and bread." - Eater Staff

"This long-running Monterey Park torta operation has been going strong since 2008, and still serves as one of the city’s best examples of the sandwich style, with classic and more modern torta iterations alike." - Farley Elliott, Bill Esparza