Darjeeling Kitchen & Café has 12 tables and an ambitious streak - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"At this 12-table spot in LIC, the staff treats like you like a cousin, no more than once removed. The place has a friendly, DIY feel, with a Taylor Swift planter in the window, a model train on display, and a brief selection of Tibetan and Himalayan dishes—a few of which transcend the casual neighborhood setting.
Speckled with chili and dusted with cilantro, Darjeeling Kitchen & Café's take on the Sherpa soup rildok is smoothie-thick, with just enough heat to sustain a mild tingle. The donut-shaped dumplings bobbing in the center are traditionally made with pounded potato—but not here. According to one server, that process is too labor-intensive for this family-run restaurant with a first-time head chef referred to as “Auntie.” Instead, they use fufu. The result? A mochi-like product light as marshmallow fluff.
video credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
Pause
Unmute
There’s not just fufu in the rildok. There’s also blue cheese. And if you’re wondering why the jhol momo broth is so coarse and crunchy, the answer is cashews, soybeans, and peanuts. This small, halal, all-day operation doesn’t let its size hold it back. Whether you order a Nepali thali with a wreath of thoughtful sides or stick to the various, flawlessly crimped momos, ask for every housemade hot sauce. Even standard offerings, like the blistered beef pies, reach new heights when dunked in a saucer of obliterated Thai green chili.
Food Rundown
Rildok
This dish makes Darjeeling Kitchen & Café a destination restaurant. Here, this traditional Sherpa soup gets just enough non-traditional blue cheese to give a subtle twang. The end product is rich and warming, with plenty of those sticky fufu dumplings.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Steamed Momo
The momos at Darjeeling Kitchen & Café are on par with what you’ll find in the momo-heavy neighborhood of Jackson Heights. What sets them apart is the slightly spicy turmeric sauce, thick as mustard, that comes on the side.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Jhol Momo
After the rildok, your next priority should be the johl momos. With its abundance of chopped nuts, the soup is thick enough to spread on toast.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Nepali Thali
A nice and relatively light meal, with lots of little sides that compete for your attention. Alongside your choice of meat, you’ll get juicy stir-fried greens, a variety of pickled vegetables, bitter melon fried in chickpea batter, and more.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Shaptak
Of the four mains, this is the most protein-forward option, but it’s also our least favorite. The thin planks of eye round seem to lose most of their moisture in the cooking process. You should know, however, that the beef pairs wonderfully with the steaming hot tingmo on the side.
photo credit: Kate Previte" - Bryan Kim